I would like to share my experience of adding wood shavings to garden soil and hope to dispel some of the bad raps on doing so.

First of all, I live where a lot of builders’ sand and fill was added when the house was built so I don’t have native soil, which in central Florida contains Mayakka sand to begin with. As a former Master gardener I learned that composting is the first important step to amending soil for a successful garden.

Second, being a wood turner I generate a lot of wood shavings and I compost kitchen waste so I have two important ingredients to start with. I researched many sites of those who have tried this and was left scratching my head about the pros and cons but had to find out for myself so this is what I do.

I do not use shavings from walnut, which is supposed to poison young plants nor do I use any aromatic wood like camphor or cedar relying on woods like cherry, oak and pine. Now I can hear someone screaming that green shavings rob nitrogen from the soil during the decomposition process. My solution is to add a cup or two of composted cow manure available at the big box stores. Of course if the wood is already kiln dried this is not an issue.

I do not use store bought composting drums, bins and such, which take weeks and occasional turning to make compost and then you have to transfer it to the garden. I simply take my kitchen scraps*, a generous amount of shavings and a little composted cow manure and place all three in a hole that I have dug in an unplanted part of my garden. I do this all through wherever I can find a new space and in ten to fifteen days it has decomposed and ready to provide nutrition. Earthworms do all the work so when you dig and see them smile and thank Mother Nature for the help. The growth of an occasional mushroom or fungi is also nature’s way of helping to break down the wood.

*Be sure to follow proper composting guidelines.

One of the hottest sellers at our new Etsy shop has been my Segmented Pine Yarn Bowls. With demand for these bowls in mind, I created the new shooting star groove design as an alternative to the standard (J) hook design. It just seemed more artistically harmonious and gives easy control of the yarn, while the stars points allow the yarn to be pulled in different directions in a controlled manner.

I use no stains or dyes, sanding each piece to a fine finish so your yarn won’t snag. Choose from small, medium or large with one-of-a-kind variations in wood grain and star groove placement. Each piece is signed and numbered. 

Overly aggressive use of any tool can lead to an adverse reaction and safety issues. Turning wood can be like playing golf, where a nice smooth swing with the proper club can produce a nice shot as opposed to a hard swing that goes out of control. Think of what pottery would look like if the artist tried to choke the clay with clenched hands. We all have days when we function differently because of how we are feeling, what is on our mind or just over enthusiasm.

I find that after completing the exterior of a bowl is not uncommon to become overzealous with the hollowing process especially with very hard wood like white oak. Always use the tailstock to support the piece as long as possible and keep your tool sharp so that a light touch is all that is needed. Too much pressure or an inadvertent angle change can cause the tool to CATCH causing a nasty gouge in the wood or worse, knocking the piece out of the chuck.

A heavy piece flying out of the chuck is not only dangerous but can damage the nice exterior and at the least cause the piece to be difficult or impossible to re-chuck accurately causing the bowl to be out of round as you continue. Remember you are creating a work of art not digging a ditch. If you are not comfortable, walk away and do something else or clean up the shop and come back fresh later.

When I initially turned this piece, I tossed it aside because I thought it wouldn't finish nicely. A few months later, I picked it up and decided to sand a little and see what would emerge. I was surprised to find some spalting and interesting grains inspiring me to finish this unique piece and name it after a Native American meditation.

Wood Type: Camphor
Wood Origin: Salvage Yard
Description: Navajo Style Bowl with Turquoise Inlay
Dimensions: 6 1/4" x 5 1/4"

Display pieces have been given a final coat of museum grade wax, which will resist fingerprints and staining. Over time an occasional light buffing with a quality furniture wax will maintain the beauty of the wood.

Food safe pieces have been finished with walnut oil and/or beeswax. After food service, rinse your wooden bowl or plate with mild soap and warm water. Never put in a dishwasher or microwave. Let it air dry and wipe with a coat of Butcher Block Conditioner (available at most big box stores) or walnut oil. 

To find center I clamp a short section of ½ inch conduit in my bench vise and place a level along side to make sure it's straight. Now it's simply a matter of balancing the faceplate side of the rough lopsided hunk of log on the end of the pipe. I mark a ring around the conduit with a sharpie or magic marker.

Just center the faceplate on the ring or drill if using a woodworm screw. I love this method even though the wood is uneven, it always finds center and so does my tailstock.