Over 2 years ago, I was inspired by a granny square jacket worn on “THIS IS US”. A quick internet search produced a plethora of granny square jacket patterns. Many were “one size fits all”, others had cute variations, wonderful colorways; even basic sizing S, M, L; but none of the pattern photos showed a granny jacket designed to focus on FIT!

After joining that first Granny Jacket my suspicions were confirmed. Without any sizing and customized fit instruction; this jacket was swimming on my 5’11”, size 8-10 frame. I set to work on my second jacket; designing a sleeker, fitted sleeve with more options echoed in the border to ease and build a nicely fitted collar and customize the front center jacket panels.

With each subsequent jacket test, I realized there's a wide variety of worsted weight #4 yarns on the market; with each unique fiber combination producing subtle differences in the drape, warmth and feel of each test jacket I made.

Every time I wear one of these jackets, people stop and ask me where I got it. When I say “you can make your own with my pattern...” the response is always laughter and the shake of a head.

Happy yarning,
🧶💭👌🏻💕
Paula

*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx. 14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns:

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" #4, medium weight 100% cotton in this project, which resulted in 14.5" placemats. Here is the colorway shown on the pattern:
•    306/Dark Denim
•    300/Pale Denim
•    302/Stonewash
•    95/Antique Cream
•    6/White

When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns are a good alternative but the .

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
​hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
​www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.

Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.

Round 2:  Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12 dc-cl, 12 ch2 sp).

Round 3:  Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).

Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).

Round 5: Join in any 2dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to  first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).

Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).

Round 7:  Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).

Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in same st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).

Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (60 2 dc cluster, 30 ch2 sp).

Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 10, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).

Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).

Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3 tr in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).

Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).

Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).

Round 15: You will decrease 1 st, two times in this round. Fold mandala in half and mark one on each side at the fold  (saves time counting). Join in any hdc, ch 4,(counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round, dec 2 marked st(s). Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (152 st).

Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).

Round 17:  Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.

This may be obvious, but it's key. I used stash-yarn because I had lots of navy yarn that went with my living room decor. It always begins that way, right?

It didn't take long to realize I had miscalculated the yarn and needed several more skeins and could only get it on-line (two orders!). So much for stash busting. This pattern requires a LOT of yarn.

After that experience I'd recommend using a value yarn like the Red Heart Supersaver® yarn designated on the pattern. At least for the main portion of the couch (and, I'm not a RH ambassador) but after all, it IS their pattern! It's affordable, washable, durable and easy to find for most. Choose a color similar to your cats dominant color so shedded fur doesn’t show as much. 

After completion I had used approximately 35 ozs. of #4 worsted; just under five 7oz. Red Heart Super-Saver® skeins for the base color (gray alone). The picture doesn't look like it takes a lot of yarn, but there is a lot of relaxing crochet that's invisable until you start making the individual pieces!

I realized the “foam foundation” (couch form) should be made before any crochet begins. That way, you can hold each piece up against the corresponding part of the couch to confirm it fits correctly as you go, saving time and frogging. The foam foundation instructions are on page 5 of the pattern –skip to that part first.

On-line, the upholstery foam would cost  $60+/- which I expected. After trips to Joanne and Hobby Lobby coupons in-hand, I found upholstery foam to be costly there too, so I resorted to some old cushion foam stashed at home.

I'd had two pieces of high-density foam in the attic. Not the precise measurements, in two different colors, but perfefct for this foam foundation considering the savings. High density upholstery foam is firmer and more expensive, but it's not really necessary for this project because most cats are light, right? If you have something that works, use it.

Following the foam foundation instructions (pgs. 5, 4), mark the exact measurements on craft paper (or newsprint, etc), and cut out pattern pieces. This step makes it easy to lay the pattern out on the foam to see the best cutting layout.

Place the largest pattern pieces on your foam first, then the smaller pieces, moving the pattern parts like a jigsaw puzzle to fit every piece before cutting the foam.

Then, take a sharpie pen and mark each pattern piece directly onto foam. If you have a key piece that’s a bit too small, consider piecing it with a leftover piece of foam, it won’t show even if the seaming is a bit uneven after gluing. As you can see below, I reallly got piece-happy and saved $60. Remember to cut 2 pieces of foam for armrest.

Cut the foam with a serrated knife, cutting the sides with the straightest right angles possible, trying not to slope those sides as you cut. Relax! With a nice big serrated bread or steak knife, it’s easier than you think. Your crocheted slip cover will be forgiving and cover little irregularities as these photos attest.

The older pattern (that I started with) specified foam glue for assembly. I purchased the upholstery foam glue which looked like Elmers® or tacky glue. It didn’t  fuse well, taking over 2 days to dry completely.

The updated pattern (shown above) specified a hot glue gun👍🏻, so I reinforced the weak spots with my hot glue and it bonded firmly, immediately. Don’t use foam glue, it’s inferior to hot glue.

Concerned the navy (stash-buster) yarn I chose for my cover would show the (lighter) foam underneath through my stitching, I painted the foam foundation with navy (water based, LATEX) paint. It dried in approx 24 hrs. while I happily crocheted.

In the end, I discovered that the foam didn't show through my stitches, but  my sad looking patchwork foundation looked  a lot nicer, and I stopped worrying about show through! An easy option if you’re concerned about that.

Final foam note: I used 1/2” foam for the cushions as specified in the first pattern. The revised pattern calls for six pieces of quilt batting, stacking 3 layers in each cushion.  Because I had neither on hand, I chose foam for a spongy, firmer cushion –more like an actual couch cushion.

Once the base perimeter strip was attached to the couch, be sure turn the cover right side out, then fit it over the foam foundation permanently. I found it better to skip adding the dust ruffle at this stage, and “sewed the bottom to lower edge of base” first.

Next pin fit the dust ruffle attaching it last. This way, you can be sure the ruffle just barely and evenly meets the floor. Using my slip stitch join on the dust ruffle join made a cording-like finished look, much like a real couch dust ruffle seam. These last 2 joins were made with the lightweight couch sitting easily in my lap.