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Granny Rectangle Blanket

11/13/2020

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Today, I tried to shot and share how nice and straight this afghan came out but the  cat had better ideas and I can’t blame her!

I loved working this Rectangular Granny Blanket from Lion Brand® #SoftSpokenYarn in the "Seashells" colorway. I kept to a very simple pattern to showcase the cool gradients, popping it with a frame of bright white with a furry chenille border. Methinks this one is a keeper!
💭❤️🧶
#yarn #knit #crochet #afghan #blanket #catsofinstagram #HeckathornYarnBowl 

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Persian Tiles Eastern Jewels Afghan

10/28/2020

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An all-time #favorite to date! 🧶
Designer @janiecrow ’s #PersianTilesEasternJewels is beautifully written with easy, concise instructions/photos resulting in a beautifully constructed pattern -well worth the download for pattern only  #StashBusting fun….

I got the kit at us.deramores.com –out-of-stock, but they emailed me when it was in. ✅Incredible VALUE   ✅ Really loved working the #stylecraftyarn and their #EasternJewels #colorway 
🧶​
#Yarn #Crochet #CrochetersOfInstagram #HeckathornYarnBowls #JumboYarnBowls

​
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Laundering Easy-Care Crocheted Acrylic Blankets & Afghans

9/15/2020

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With gentle care with your blankets and afghans will be beautiful keepsakes to be treasured for years to come!

All my Easy-Care Acrylic Blankets are shipped ready to enjoy! Before every afghan is shipped, It has been soaked overnight in lavender *Eucalan Wool Wash, spin dried on a delicate setting, then laid out with a final straightening on the bed in the spare room to air dry. Laundering is tough on blankets, so skip the temptation to wash it upon receipt.

When your afghan needs laundering, soak overnight in the tub of your washing machine or bucket with cool water and a mild soap (like baby shampoo or Woolite). If there are stains, spray or spot treat with an all fabric safe spray (like Zout, Oxi-Clean or Spray ’n Wash) prior to soaking.

After an overnight soak, spin dry on delicate stopping as soon as the water is spun out. Your blanket will be almost dry. Lay it out on a flat surface (a bed is perfect!) and gently shape if necessary. Do not use fabric softeners, bleach or an iron!


After laundering, you may have a couple "tails" pop out. These hardly noticeable yarn ends have been woven twice to lock them in, but washing/spinning can cause a couple ends to work their way out out. Simply weave them back in with a darning needle or tug gently and snip close to afghan after a gentle pull to be sure that tail is long enough to ensure it won’t unrave! Gently work  the fibers straight after doing so. It is always best to reweave rather than snip!​


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DIY Blocking Board

8/15/2020

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Make this quick and easy blocking board with just a couple tools and scrap wood!
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Crocheted (or knit) squares are relaxing and fun. When all your squares are complete the key to assembling your squares for a blanket, pillow or project is uniform squares. Finish several squares, load them onto your blocking board spritzing each square with water as you stack. When the yarning is all done, you’ll have blocked squares ready to assemble with military precision!

Materials

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You will need:
•  Wood (see note)
•  3, 1/4" x 48" Wooden Dowels
•  Pencil & Felt Marker
•  Ruler
•  Power Drill with 1/4" Wood Bit
•  A Light Cutter or Small Saw
•  Optional Pencil Sharpener
•  Sand Paper
•  Thompsons Water Seal Spray or a can of spray paint.
WOOD Note: You can use scrap wood on hand cut into a square at least 1" larger than the finished size of your yarn squares. I used a length of 2 x 8 pine cut off to make a 7-1/4" square* which is ideal for these 5-1/2" grannies. However, a larger or smaller piece of scrap wood that's bigger than the finished size of your squares will do. If your scrap wood is thinner in depth, you might want to glue 2 pieces together to make the drill holes deeper to give extra support to the dowels. The 2" depth shown here is perfect. *Most 2x8 pine boards are 2" deep x 7-1/4" wide; not 8"!?

Assembly

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Measure and mark your square accurately corner to corner as shown. Mark the center intersection with a cross.
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Mark the center intersection with a cross. Next measure and mark your square at an equal distant around  the board from the center point outward as shown. I made this for a 5-1/2" Granny Square project, measuring 2-3/4" out from the center to form a square as shown. Mark a big dot at each of the nine intersections. These are your the drill holes.
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Drill each hole testing each hole with a piece of doweling as you go. The dowels should slide in/out easily without being too loose, allow extra space for wood swell (caused by water when you spray your squares). TIP: You can spray the board and dowels with Thompsons Water Seal or paint all the parts to avoid swelling when the project is done!
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Mark the dowels every 12" and cut. You’ll have 12 stretcher dowels (3 extras). If you have a pencil sharpener, sharpen to a point. Note: this step is not crucial, a smooth flat end works fine.
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Sand the dowels smooth, blunting each end if you made points. Make them all nice and smooth so they don’t snag your squares. Test that they slide easily into the holes; drilling the holes a bit bigger if the dowls don't slide in/out easily.

Spray the dowels and blocking board with Thompsons Water Seal –or a light spray of paint or poly to seal the wood to prevent swealing when you spray your squares.

Voila, You're Ready To Block!

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Multi-size Blocking Board Option

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HINT! Use a larger board, and drill several sets of holes to make a multi-size blocking board with drill guide as shown sized to your preferred sizes.
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Reusable Shopping Bags Make Great Face Masks!

4/13/2020

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Strange times  call for different methods... in this case, sewing where my yarning posts usually live. It's been fun to get back to the machine for a bit.
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Last week I made masks from woven cotton fabric on hand and shared this nicely thought out mask pattern by CraftPassion.com

Then, testing these masks on warm walks in FL, I found the woven cotton masks too heavy and uncomfortable. I started thinking… What about non-woven polypropylene material? Known for it's breathable, wicking properties I was pretty sure that it was the same fabric as the "HEPA" filter fabric used in vacuum cleaner bags.
What about non-woven polypropylene material found in REUSABLE SHOPPING BAGS?
While not medical grade, the fabric is similar to the fabric used for N95 masks –a bit heavier but when doubled (main fabric and lining fabric), these lighter, more breathable masks are a good alternative to cotton masks, much lighter and easier to breathe.
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Non-woven polypropylene is a practical fabric because it is strong and extremely lightweight, comfortable,  soft, and commonly used to make surgical masks and gowns.
Here’s one of several articles confirming the viability of turning those bags into DIY face masks: www.msn.com/en-us/news/other/the-best-materials-for-diy-face-masks-and-filters/ar-BB12jzH1
Polypropylene non-woven fibers (used in non-shiny reusable fabric grocery bags, tote bags and wine bags) also make adequate filter fabrics. “This is the same material used in N95 masks, although the thickness and weave are different,” says *Stanford physician Sudeb C. Dalai

DIY face mask pro Juliana Sohn states that  "…grocery store tote bags made with non-woven polypropylene have the advantage of being easily laundered, allowing you to use them again and again…."
​Many of you many already have "Reusable Shopping Bags" in your car or home. I found mine at the checkout line of a big box store. Each bag (under $1.00) made 4 masks. And, you could squeeze out 5 masks from a lot of bags; I laid these out to show off the cute prints.

Here are some hints/instructions for repurposing reusable shopping bags using CraftPassion.com ’s helpful pattern

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Grab a seam ripper and remove the binding before washing.
1. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the side seams. The binding could be used for a (non-stretchy) tie if you don’t have elastic braid handy!

2. Throw all the shopping bag parts into the washer (hot, cold, doesn’t matter), then in the dryer (these dry quick). The washer/dryer should remove the thread bits, so you don’t have to pick them out or make a mess.
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Making multiple masks? Print 4-5 copies of the pattern to get the most out of your fabric.
3. Print four or five copies of the pattern if you're making multiples. This will help plan placement of best parts of the bag if you have prints you want to feature. To me, there wasn’t much  difference in size (1/4" +/-?) with Women’s vs. Mens pattern, so I’ve started making them all in women’s size, which fit my husband fine.
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4. Make your Main (outside pieces) using the OUTSIDE of the bag. Lining pieces using INSIDE of the bag. I found the inside of my bags to be a bit smoother and nicer next to the face.
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The lining (inside) of my bags had a whitish cast and is a bit smoother to the touch. Lay out your lining fabric so it's against the face on finished masks.
5. No pressing necessary! This polypropylene is similar to paper. It creases perfectly! That means you can finger press seams before top stitching for nice clean, crisp edges to topstitch on. Yeay, no pressing.
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6. Optional! Zig-Zag 4" length of trimmed pipe cleaner in the seam at the bridge of the nose for closer fit.
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Elastic is now scarce. I used mine all up. Here’s the instruction sheet I sent to family/friends with their masks today. You can find elastic in strange places –old workout pants and exercise clothing has great elastic in the waist if you're ready to sacrifice a pair.

If you do have one good length of braided elastic, fit the maske, then pin the elastic together with a small safety pin. If you knot the elastic braid tightly, it’s very hard to undo and you might want to be able to use one piece of precious elastic to change out your stylish masks as the mood suits you!
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While these masks are machine washable and withstand dryer heat, I just throw my mask in a bucket of hot water and Dawn, soak for a bit, rinse and put it out in the breeze to air dry. We don't go out often, so this is quick and easy. Remember to avoid handling any mask after use,  and get it into hot soapy water or the washer as soon as you're home.
Get fun, be creative, be safe and comfortable –while you're at it, make some for family and friends!
Make them mass production!
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Tropighana Crochet Blanket with Triple Crab Stitch Border

3/3/2020

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Clear simple, one page directions with chart. Scroll to bottom for free download link.
​I chose this pattern for a relaxing binge and crochet #wip and this textural afghan didn't disappoint. It's amazing what one one simple stitch and five colors can do! 
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The long edges on this piece are so even and uniform, I suppressed my usual urge for border finishing to show these edges off. A triple crab stitch border anchored each end of the afghan with a simple twist (see notes below). This one's a winner... relax and crochet away.
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My Finishing Variation
Triple Crab Stitch Border
All stash yarn; (4) medium weight worsted (see pattern for new yarn specifics).
Finished dimensions: 40" (101.6 cm) width x 66" (172.72 cm) length 
​Border (finish ends only)
  • Row 1: 1 row hdc in start/finish color.  I skipped every 3rd stitch of every (3) dc cluster to work a flat even border foundation.
  • Rows 2-4: Crab stitch 3 rows changing colors each row. Check reverse side on row 2, when you start. Place crab stitch between the previous row stitches (not center of the "v") -when this is done, the border is pretty on both sides.
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Grab and print the FREE Pattern here:

https://www.allfreecrochetafghanpatterns.com/Striped-Afghans/Tropighana-Crochet-Blanket-Pattern-Yarnspirations
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Granny Wave Border Blanket

2/8/2020

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There’s a plethora of free Granny Ripple blanket patterns online. I made my variations using Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket", a free 13 page pdf with everything you need to make this in multiple sizes with clear detailed instructions, edging details and charts for the blanket AND the edging. Find out more about Rhonda; the designer and download links at the end of this post.

Just remember... these are rough notes targeted to those who know the basics of crochet. None of it is difficult, but if you don't understand my directions, "google" the term in question for clarification:) 
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You'll Need:
Lion  Mandala Ombré Yarn (for throw size)
    4 Cakes Mantra (Aquas/Blues)
    2 Cakes Harmony (Lt - Dark Denim Blues)
Hook: 6 mm (J), or size required for gauge
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker
Substitutions: Acrylic Yarns with a Weight of 4 (Medium)
(My) Finished Size 44" 68" +/-(Throw).
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​How I did it!

​Mandala Ombré’s color changes are more subtle than the original: each color gradually blends into the other in both tonal and multi-colored versions. The printing technique allows for some of the cream yarn base to show through, creating a hand-dyed, artisanal effect. Mandala Ombré is slightly thicker than some worsteds, spun with multiple plies of premium acrylic, which give it the look and feel of merino at a fraction of the cost. Soft, springy, yummy!
​I started the Healing Granny Ripple Blanket with the darkest* of the "Harmony" yarn for first 6 rows, then switched to the "Mantra" until I got to 6 rows short of my desired length switching back to 6 rows of darkest Harmony to anchor my waves. 

*Lion Brand Ombré Cakes have several color bands. Mantra cakes have 6 shades of color while the Harmony cakes had 3 varied tones of the same shade of light to dark blue denim. To create the beginning and end rows, Granny Points and foundation for the blanket edging I wound a ball of each color from the cakes, joining with an invisible knot as necessary, unwinding a cake in each color (larger blankets my require more border yarn). 
Now this is "relaxing crochet"!
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Used the (darker) Harmony yarn for first and last rows and granny points making a deep contrast to frame the blanket.
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​Making balls of each color for the border from remaining cakes.

​Of course, this wouldn't be complete without a kitty assist...

​After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points

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Begin with a magic loop. 
• Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc on all rounds), 3 dc in ring, ch 1, 4 dc in ring. Fasten off. (8 dc) 
• Row 2: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off. 
• Row 3: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.
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​Make points, lay them along each long edge making sure the tonal variations in the yarn (my points were made from the darkest of the ombré yarn, but some were lighter). Then stack in order (I use a couple chop sticks) and do an Invisible Join (Google it!?)  up the side. Leave 1 - 2 stitches (no more!) between adjacent points where they connect to the blanket, these little spaces will close up and snug the neighboring points together when you add the border.
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Edging:
Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket" has pretty edging instructions with a nice chart for reference. I used this pattern, with sc for first few rows, decreasing in the valleys (pulling the little space between the points together), and increasing on the peaks as outlined. I did a slight variation on my final 2 rows of border. Have fun like I did and make this pattern your own!

Download the pattern HERE!

"Healing Ripple Blanket"
Thanks to the pattern designer:

Rhondda is a freelance Crochet Designer and full-time Blogger at Oombawka Design Crochet: oombawkadesigncrochet.com
​
Here she shares her love of crochet with the online crochet community through her beginner friendly free patterns and tutorials.  She currently resides in Ontario, Canada with her husband and two young children. You can also find her patterns on Ravelry as RhonddaM
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FREE Kitty Cat Crochet Blanket & Mouse Pattern

9/1/2019

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Enjoy this FREE PATTERN! Or, download a handy 2 page pdf for printing at the end of this post for $1.95!
This pattern is fun and easy for beginner or advanced crocheters alike. Its small size makes this the purrfect car or travel project; especially if you're visiting friends with a cat!
SKILL LEVEL: Easy (with basic knowledge of crochet techniques).
SIZE: Small; approx. 18” x 24” (46 cm x 60cm). Medium +10 ST; Large +20 ST.
REPEAT: 5 pattern REP, increase as desired to any size in multiples of 5.
GAUGE: Not necessary. Cats don’t care what size their blanket is!
US TERMS
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​You Will Need
​
YARN: 10 oz. +/- 4 ply worsted yarn, in 3 colors.
CROCHET HOOKS: I/9 (5.5mm) blanket; 7 (4.5 mm) border.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
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A fun pattern for our fuzzy friends...  because cats love blankets too.
Foundation Rows
❍ F1: CH 70 Stitches 
❍ F2: DC in the 4th CH from hook, DC in next CH, Skip 4 chains, in the next CH (5th chain) work your “shell” (pattern REP): *2DC, CH1, 2DC, SK 4 CH’s, REP from * across for the width ending the row with 1 DC in each of the last 2 chains, turn.
❍ F3: CH 2, DC in the next DC, work shell: *2DC, CH1, 2DC in the next CH 1 space. REP from * across for the width ending the row with 1 DC in each of the last 2 DC’s, turn.
❍ F4: REP row F3, changing color at the end of the row before turning.
Pattern Repeat Rows
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❍ ROW 1: CH 2, DC in the next DC, *Work a Drop Stitch in the space below (before the shell), then work a shell: 2DC, CH1, 2DC in the CH 1 space of the shell from the previous row. REP from * across. Finish row with a drop stitch after the final shell and a DC in each of the last 2 ST(S). Turn.
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NOTE: Work your last DC in 2nd chain at the end of each row (see pic) below. You may want to place a stitch marker here when you make the stitch
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❍ ROW 2-3: CH 2, DC in the next DC, work *2DC, CH1, 2DC in the next CH 1 Space. REP from * across for the width, 1 DC in each of the last 2 DC, turn. Change color every time you complete row 3.
​

CONTINUE ROWS 1-3 TO DESIRED LENGTH. For small blanket, approximately 24” (610mm) making sure your end row is the same color as first row. Change to border color, turn. Work “End Border, ROW 1”
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❍ END BORDER, ROW 1: CH 2, SC in next ST, *DS in space between shells, SC in the 2 ST(S) before SC space in shell, skip shell space, SC in next ST. Repeat from * ending row with SC’s in last to ST. Change to border color, turn.

​❍
 END BORDER, ROW 2: Work 1 HDC in each ST to end. Finish off, weave in end.
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❍ F1 (BLANKET START CH 70) BORDER, ROW 1: Flip blanket around to the other end (starting chain Row F1). Using same border color work a standing SC and chain 2. SC in next ST. *SC 3 ST around ST in the CH space, 1 SC in shell center, Repeat from * to end of row. Turn.
❍ F1 BORDER, ROW 2: Work 1 HDC in each ST to end. Finish off, weave in end.
Block your blanket before adding fringe

Fringe
Work fringe on each end, back side facing.
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❍ Cut a piece of cardboard to 5” X 7” (127mm x 177mm). Mark one of the long sides “cut”, then line up 3 strands of worsted on the cut edge and evenly wind approx 50 times around. Do this loosely without stretching the yarn too much.

❍
 Cut the “cut” edge of the yarn while holding all yarn in place on the cardboard until all strands are cut. Unfold them to a neat stack of strands 9-11” long. You’ll have enough fringe for more than one side, wind and cut more yarn, estimating what you’ll need for completion.
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❍ Pull 2 or 3 strands from the stack fold in half (ends won’t be even, but will be trimmed later), I usually alternate 2 and 3 strands in random colors for thick fringe with nice knots that lay flat.
❍ Insert a hook through 1st SC and pull the folded strands through making a big loop.
❍ Pull all strands through the loop, then pull all strands gently and adjust to make a smooth knot on the right side of blank
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❍ Trim to desired length (shown 3”).
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You Will Need
​
YARN: 4 ply worsted yarn. 
CROCHET HOOK: C/2 (2.5mm).
TAIL: 8” (203mm) cord, rawhide or yarn
POLYFIL: Small quantity for body.
CATNIP: 2-3 tablespoons of good stuff.
DETAIL: Black and pink embroidery floss or yarn for eyes and nose.
Body
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This mouse is made in rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to mark the beginning of the round.
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❍ RND 1: Make a magic ring, SC 4 ST. (4 SC).
❍ RND 2: Work 2 SC in each SC around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in next SC 4 times around. (12 SC). 
❍ RND 4: SC evenly around. (12 SC).
❍ RND 5: SC in next 3 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (15 SC) 
❍ RND 6 AND 7: SC in each ST around. (15 SC).
❍ RND 8: SC in next 4 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (18 SC).
❍ RND 9: Work 2 SC in each of the next 6 SC (12 SC) to form a tiny hump on the body. Then SC in each of the next 12 ST (12 SC). (24 SC).
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❍ INSERT TAIL: Make a big bulky knot in one end of your tail. I love rawhide tails –you can buy scrap bags of rawhide at craft stores, and I find lots of uses for it around the house. Or get creative, use some cord, twine or SC a tail, weaving in one end, making a knot at the other end.

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❍ Thread tail through center of the magic ring and pull as tight as possible. 
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❍ FIRMLY STUFF a bit of Polyfill with a big pinch of catnip on top of the tail. Stuff more polyfill over the catnip. Crochet a couple rows and REPEAT AT LEAST 3 TIMES before finishing. The more catnip the better, right?

❍ RNDS 10 THROUGH 20: SC in each ST around. (24 SC).
❍ RND 21: Decrease (SC in the next SC, SC2TOG) 8 times around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 22 AND 23: SC in each ST around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 24: SC2TOG 8 times around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 25: SC2TOG 4 times around, pull to close the hole, finish off.
Work your mouse into shape. Tug the nose pointy, hump faces up, flatten the bottom, mark the center back, eyes, nose with pins. Moving the eyes a tiny bit closer or wider makes a big difference in your mouse’s personality! Set aside.
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Ears (make 2)
❍ ROW 1: CH2, Work 3 SC in 2nd CH from hook. ( SC) CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 2: SC in first SC, 2 sc in next SC, SC in last SC (4 SC) CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in each of the next SC, SC in last SC. (6SC).
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❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss. ​
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Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!
I hope you enjoy this FREE Pattern (here). If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions and photos you see on this blog post (14 pages if printed directly from this page) in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper. 

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
​Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing  for $1.95!

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FREE Crochet Mandala Placemat Pattern

8/30/2019

6 Comments

 
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These fun Mandala Placemats are a quick and easy project. I used “I Love This Cotton” yarn; pattern also works well with acrylic worsted if you prefer. Make 2, 4, 6 or 8 fourteen-inch diameter placemats. And, its extra fun making more than one!
US Terms
You Will Need 
  • 5, 3.5oz skeins 5 colors, #4 worsted weight cotton or acrylic make 4 placements; 14 - 16" diameter*
  • 5mm hook
  • 1 tapestry needle
​
Abbreviations
st(s) stitch(s)
ch chain
ch-sp(s) chain space
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
dc double crochet
hdc half double crochet
tr treble crochet
sp dc spike double crochet
2dc-cl  2 double crochet cluster 
ss slip stitch ss slip stitch    
sk skip
yo yarn over hook

Notes All Rounds:
• All rounds are worked front side facing 
• Pattern repeat in bold type for each round makes pattern reading easy once you know how to start each row.
• Join new yarn at the beginning of each round.
Count/fasten off:
• Count after every round, if stitch count is off, pattern won’t work and you’ll need to inc/dec as necessary or frog!
• Fasten off every, weave in tail in well.
​
Special Stitches
Spike dc (sp dc): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch in row below, and draw up a loop to the height of the current row. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice.
2dc cluster: Yo, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo. Insert hook into the same stitch, and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo and draw through remaining 3 loops. 
Picot: Ch5, ss to 1st ch.
*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx. 14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns:

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" #4, medium weight 100% cotton in this project, which resulted in 14.5" placemats. Here is the colorway shown on the pattern:
•    306/Dark Denim
•    300/Pale Denim
•    302/Stonewash
•    95/Antique Cream
•    6/White

When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns are a good alternative but the .

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
​hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
​www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.
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Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.
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Round 2:  Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12dc-cl, 12 ch1 sp).
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Round 3:  Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).
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Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).
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Round 5: Join in any 2dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to  first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).
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Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).
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Round 7:  Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).
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Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).
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Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (60 2 dc cluster, 30 ch2 sp).
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Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 10, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).
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Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).
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Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3 tr in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).
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Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).
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Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).
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Round 15: You will decrease 1 st, two times in this round. Fold mandala in half and mark one on each side at the fold  (saves time counting). Join in any hdc, ch 4,(counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round, dec 2 marked st(s). Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (152 st).
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Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).
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Round 17:  Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.
Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions from this blog post (13 pages if printed directly from this page) with photo blowups in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper. 
Follow this link to purchse this 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $2.95!
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6 Comments

Yarn Care Hang-Tags Free Download .pdf

8/9/2019

0 Comments

 

Don't Forget To Gift Or Sell With Yarn Care Hang Tags!!

Just in time for craft fair season, these yarn care hang tags are perfect for craft show selling or a quick and easy addition to any yarn gift for a professional look. 

Download your choice of 2 layouts (below). Both are formatted to 8 1/2" x 11" printing with best results on card stock.

​Simply print, trim, punch a hole, then add a yarn or ribbon hanger and check the bubble to hand or machine wash. Enjoy the freebie, happy yarning!
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 Handmade_Trim_Sheep.pdf
Easy option. These tags are ready to download and print with no customization necessary (sheep graphic at bottom of tag).
handmade_trim_sheep.pdf
File Size: 2922 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

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Handmade_Trim_Blank.pdf
Advanced option. Download this file for customization -add your logo or message to (blank) bottom of the tag.
handmade_trim_blank.pdf
File Size: 2561 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

0 Comments

No-Budge Crochet Coasters

1/31/2019

0 Comments

 
Sharing a video I created for Instagram Stories. Very frustrating as of this posting, I had learned that the vertical format this was shot in would play in vertical format when posted. Obviously, after a lot of attempts the intended vertical format has not worked, with black space on either side.

Still, some good info here –enjoy! If you know the "fix" let me know 😳Happy Yarning 🧶
0 Comments

    Paula Heckathorn

    Sharing some yarn fun.

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