Last week I made masks from woven cotton fabric on hand and shared this nicely thought out mask pattern by CraftPassion.com

Then, testing these masks on warm walks in FL, I found the woven cotton masks too heavy and uncomfortable. I started thinking… What about non-woven polypropylene material? Known for it's breathable, wicking properties I was pretty sure that it was the same fabric as the "HEPA" filter fabric used in vacuum cleaner bags.

​Many of you many already have "Reusable Shopping Bags" in your car or home. I found mine at the checkout line of a big box store. Each bag (under $1.00) made 4 masks. And, you could squeeze out 5 masks from a lot of bags; I laid these out to show off the cute prints.

1. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the side seams. The binding could be used for a (non-stretchy) tie if you don’t have elastic braid handy!

2. Throw all the shopping bag parts into the washer (hot, cold, doesn’t matter), then in the dryer (these dry quick). The washer/dryer should remove the thread bits, so you don’t have to pick them out or make a mess.

6. Optional! Zig-Zag 4" length of trimmed pipe cleaner in the seam at the bridge of the nose for closer fit.

While these masks are machine washable and withstand dryer heat, I just throw my mask in a bucket of hot water and Dawn, soak for a bit, rinse and put it out in the breeze to air dry. We don't go out often, so this is quick and easy. Remember to avoid handling any mask after use,  and get it into hot soapy water or the washer as soon as you're home.

Crocheted (or knit) squares are relaxing and fun. When all your squares are complete the key to assembling your squares for a blanket, pillow or project is uniform squares. Finish several squares, load them onto your blocking board spritzing each square with water as you stack. When the yarning is all done, you’ll have blocked squares ready to assemble with military precision!

Measure and mark your square accurately corner to corner as shown. Mark the center intersection with a cross.

Mark the center intersection with a cross. Next measure and mark your square at an equal distant around  the board from the center point outward as shown. I made this for a 5-1/2" Granny Square project, measuring 2-3/4" out from the center to form a square as shown. Mark a big dot at each of the nine intersections. These are your the drill holes.

Drill each hole testing each hole with a piece of doweling as you go. The dowels should slide in/out easily without being too loose.

Mark the dowels every 12" and cut. You’ll have 12 stretcher dowels (3 extras). If you have a pencil sharpener, sharpen to a point. Note: this step is not crucial, a smooth flat end works fine.

Sand the dowels smooth, blunting each end if you made points. Make them all nice and smooth so they don’t snag your squares.

Use a larger board, and drill several sets of holes to make a multi-size blocking board with drill guide as shown sized to your preferred sizes.

​I chose this pattern for a relaxing binge and crochet #wip and this textural afghan didn't disappoint. It's amazing what one one simple stitch and five colors can do! 

The long edges on this piece are so even and uniform, I suppressed my usual urge for border finishing to show these edges off. A triple crab stitch border anchored each end of the afghan with a simple twist (see notes below). This one's a winner... relax and crochet away.

My Finishing Variation
Triple Crab Stitch Border
All stash yarn; (4) medium weight worsted (see pattern for new yarn specifics).
Finished dimensions: 40" (101.6 cm) width x 66" (172.72 cm) length 

​Border (finish ends only)

• Row 1: 1 row hdc in start/finish color.  I skipped every 3rd stitch of every (3) dc cluster to work a flat even border foundation.
• Rows 2-4: Crab stitch 3 rows changing colors each row. Check reverse side on row 2, when you start. Place crab stitch between the previous row stitches (not center of the "v") -when this is done, the border is pretty on both sides.

There’s a plethora of free Granny Ripple blanket patterns online. I made my variations using Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket", a free 13 page pdf with everything you need to make this in multiple sizes with clear detailed instructions, edging details and charts for the blanket AND the edging. Find out more about Rhonda; the designer and download links at the end of this post.

Just remember... these are rough notes targeted to those who know the basics of crochet. None of it is difficult, but if you don't understand my directions, "google" the term in question for clarification:) 

​Mandala Ombré’s color changes are more subtle than the original: each color gradually blends into the other in both tonal and multi-colored versions. The printing technique allows for some of the cream yarn base to show through, creating a hand-dyed, artisanal effect. Mandala Ombré is slightly thicker than some worsteds, spun with multiple plies of premium acrylic, which give it the look and feel of merino at a fraction of the cost. Soft, springy, yummy!

Begin with a magic loop. 
• Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc on all rounds), 3 dc in ring, ch 1, 4 dc in ring. Fasten off. (8 dc) 
• Row 2: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off. 
• Row 3: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.

​Make points, lay them along each long edge making sure the tonal variations in the yarn (my points were made from the darkest of the ombré yarn, but some were lighter). Then stack in order (I use a couple chop sticks) and do an Invisible Join (Google it!?)  up the side. Leave 1 - 2 stitches (no more!) between adjacent points where they connect to the blanket, these little spaces will close up and snug the neighboring points together when you add the border.

Edging:
Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket" has pretty edging instructions with a nice chart for reference. I used this pattern, with sc for first few rows, decreasing in the valleys (pulling the little space between the points together), and increasing on the peaks as outlined. I did a slight variation on my final 2 rows of border. Have fun like I did and make this pattern your own!

This pattern is fun and easy for beginner or advanced crocheters alike. Its small size makes this the purrfect car or travel project; especially if you're visiting friends with a cat!

❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss. ​

Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!

*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx.14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns.

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" which produced 14.5" placemats. When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns are a good alternative but the .

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
​hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
​www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.

Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.

Round 2:  Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12dc-cl, 12 ch1 sp).

Round 3:  Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).

Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).

Round 5: Join in any 2dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to  first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).

Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).

Round 7:  Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).

Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).

Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (60 2 dc cluster, 30 ch2 sp).

Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 10, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).

Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).

Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3 tr in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).

Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).

Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).

Round 15: You will decrease 1 st, two times in this round. Fold mandala in half and mark one on each side at the fold  (saves time counting). Join in any hdc, ch 4,(counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round, dec 2 marked st(s). Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (152 st).

Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).

Round 17:  Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.

Your beautiful crochet afghan is done. Straight or assembled from squares; you lay it on the floor and it looks a bit wonky. You kept an eye on the long edges, counted and adjusted stitches, practiced consistent tension, frogged where necessary...

​So, why are there some bumpy and wavy spots up the sides? Why aren't the ends the same length? Because there are two more crucial ​steps! Blocking & Bording!

Blocking and bordering go together like peas and carrots. You’ve spent time working and visualizing this pretty blanket for gifting, home or friends. Now’s the time to finish it with love and some TLC so you're proud of your hard work.

1.   Is your blanket made acrylic or wool (or something else)? Squares, motifs or stripes? Big or small? Each of these factors need to be considered before blocking.

Acrylic yarns don't hold their blocked shape like wool and other natural fibers do. And, while applying a bit of gentle steam when blocking acrylics can tame problem spots, it can also "break" the yarn if you're not careful; resulting in fused (or melted) fibers which make those fibers weak and limp.

I work primarily with acrylic yarns because I need a wide array of colors for yarn bowls photos and acrylics are more affordable than natural fibers. As a result, I've spent a great deal of time perfecting a technique to ease and coax my bumps and waves into straight, smooth borders. I love to crochet, but I’m not an expert. If I don’t finish properly it shows, and that blanket will be stuffed in the back of a closet to torture me whenever I come across it!

2.  ​There's a wealth of fiber and project specific blocking tutorials on the internet. You might want to search “How to block a (wool or acrylic) crochet blanket” to find the method best for your project and fiber type.

3.  If your blanket is made from acrylic fibers, try my method. Soak your blanket overnight in a (portable) plastic tub with lukewarm water with a capful of Eucalan (no rinse!) fine fabric wash; well worth the price and widely available. After soaking, arrange the blanket evenly in your washing machine, pour in the blocking water and give it a nice spin on the delicate cycle. If you don't have a washer, press out the water gently, do not wring!

4.  After the spin cycle, your blanket will feel almost dry. Block your blanket with t-pins, spray with water and let it dry. The longer it sits the better, overnight works well. Plan to spread your blocking and bordering out over a couple days.

This technique works for me. Work it or develop your own and watch a gorgeous blanket emerge from your hook. Before starting, do a little prep work:

Insert Your Foundation Rows Before Your Pattern Calls For Border Row 1
Before you start following the border instructions on your pattern, you can smooth out irregularities (bumps and waves) by adding foundation rows: f1, f2 and occasionally f3 as outlined below.

These inserted rows are the foundation for a straight and square blanket border. If your blanket is a bit  “wonky” this technique will gently straighten your afghan with a nice foundation to finish the blanket with a simple or embellished final border rows as instructed in your pattern.

Most patterns instruct to work a border with “sc evenly around all 4 edges...” assuming you know this rule:
Formula:
Stitch up the (long) edges with

• 1 sc in the end of single crochet rows
• 2 sc in the end of double crochet rows
• 3 sc in the end of treble crochet rows.
• Work 3 st in each corner

1.  Single crochet F1 front facing, using looser tension than usual. Start a couple inches from the corner on an end row establishing an even tension before turning the corner and working the long edge. Work 3 sc in each corner stitch and try using the formula (above).

In theory the formula should work. However, if the prescribed stitches don’t look even to your eye, frog and adjust the stitches so f1 appears to be evenly spaced to your eye (see below).

2.  COUNT your stitches! Place a different color stitch marker on each side. Count the stitches write down the stitch for each side count next to each color as shown below. 

A varying stitch count on your long edges happens when you work your f1 stitches to look even (as opposed to formula method). However, working even f1 and f2 rows (and f3 if necessary) is what gently straightens out your blanket.

This afghan is a good example with a substantial difference of approx. 23+/- st on each of the long edges.

• Blue (Long) = 169 st
• Green (Long  = 146 st
• Red (Short) = 113
• Pink (Short) = 113

After counting your sides, plug in your numbers using this method below to figure increase/decrease count for each long edge:

• 169 st (blue side) less 146 sts (green side) = 23 st.
• Round down to 22 stitches ÷ 2 = 11 st.
• Decrease (-22) st on the blue side
• Increase (+22) st on the green side.
• Ends should have the same stitch count increase or decrease as necessary.

3.  Lay your blanket on the floor and smooth it flat. If you still have some bumps/waves put a straight pin at the start and end of each problem spot. ​This wil help to identify these areas when working the f2 row up close. If you don't have bumps/waves at this point, pat yourself on the back and move on to  step 4.

4.  Evenly mark for increase and decrease st(s) on each side with t-pins –no need to count, just roughly space your t-pins evenly across to indicate placement of upir increase and decrease stitches. You may have a lot of pins in your blanket, but it's a quick and easy way to mark areas that need adjustment. Count if that's easier for you. Now you're ready for f2. 

1.  Start f2 anywhere and sc around, adjusting the pin marked areas as you go. It's best to start at the beginning of your first or last row because you won't have decreases/increases on those rows and you get a feel for the perfect tension before you have move to adjustments on the long edges.

Sc 3 sts in each corner. Try to keep your tension loose if you have a tendency to work tight. Decrease (in my case 11 st on the blue edge) and increase (11 st on green edge) when you reach the corresponding t-pin marker.

2.  Have a full size larger hook handy for (straight) pin marked areas.

• When you reach a bump (out) switch to the larger hook and increase your tension until you get to the pin marking the end of the bump, switching back to the smaller hook.
• When you get to a wave (inward) switch to your larger hook and maintain the same tension, switching to the smaller hook at pin marked end of the wave.

This should gently pull in and remaining bumps and fill in any remaining waves.

3.  As you go, stop and look at your stitches frequently to see if you need to tighten or loosen your tension. If so, frog those stitches and rework for a smooth border without rippling. This is almost fun. As you look back and forward as you work, you don’t have much frogging to rework a problem spot taming it into a nice smooth foundation row.
​
4.  Count each side again and write it down, if your stitches are evenly placed and you have the same count on corresponding sides, move on to border row 1 of your pattern. If your blanket could use more straightening, do a final f3 row, counting then increasing or decreasing where necessary. Adjustments on an f3 row should be minimal but it will enhance your border if you take the time.

This method works well on any crochet blanket, but this techniques really shines when you're faced with waving sides on acrylic afghans. Easing the border on the long edges in the manner, smoothed several spots that would have resulted in bumpy/wavy border. A final blocking was worth the added effort!

​After row f2 and an overnight blocking, I finished with one row of hdc, a second row of dc, then 2 rows of loose sc using 2 strands of white fluffy yarn (Hobby Lobby Snuggle Up).
 
The blue foundation borders represent the sky, while the fluffy white edging represents clouds framing a fun southwestern baby blanket adapted from Red Heart Yarn's "Southwestern Rainbow Throw" scaled to a starting chain of 112 st with a finished measurement of 38"x 54".

Sharing a video I created for Instagram Stories. Very frustrating as of this posting, I had learned that the vertical format this was shot in would play in vertical format when posted. Obviously, after a lot of attempts the intended vertical format has not worked, with black space on either side.

Still, some good info here –enjoy! If you know the "fix" let me know 😳Happy Yarning 🧶