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FREE Crochet Mandala Placemat Pattern

8/22/2024

These fun Mandala Placemats are a quick and easy project. I used “I Love This Cotton” yarn; pattern also works well with acrylic worsted if you prefer. Make 2, 4, 6 or 8 fourteen-inch diameter placemats. And, its extra fun making more than one!

US Terms
You Will Need

5, 3.5oz skeins 5 colors, #4 worsted weight cotton or acrylic make 4 placements; 14 - 16" diameter*
5mm hook
1 tapestry needle

Abbreviations
st(s) = stitch(s)
ch = chain
cl = cluster
ch-sp(s) = chain space
sp(s) = space(s)
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
lps = loops
tr = treble crochet
sp dc = spike double crochet
2dc-cl = 2 double crochet cluster
ss = slip stitch
sk skip
yo yarn over hook

SPECIAL STITCHES
Spike dc (sp dc): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch in row below, and draw up a loop to the height of the current row. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice.
3tr cluster: Yo 2 times, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in same st, yo, pull through st, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times; repeat from *, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook, ch 1.
2dc cluster: Yo, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo. Insert hook into the same stitch, and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo and draw through remaining 3 loops.
Picot: Ch5, ss to 1st ch.

ALL Rounds:
• All rounds are worked front side facing
• Pattern repeat in bold type for each round makes pattern reading easy once you know how to start each row.
• Join new yarn at the beginning of each round.
COUNT Before You Fasten Off:
• Count after every round, if stitch count is off, pattern won’t work and you’ll need to inc/dec as necessary or frog!
• Fasten off every, weave in tail in well.

*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx. 14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns:

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" #4, medium weight 100% cotton in this project, which resulted in 14.5" placemats. Here is the colorway shown on the pattern:
•   306/Dark Denim
•   300/Pale Denim
•   302/Stonewash
•   95/Antique Cream
•   6/White

When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns while an alternative but they won't wash/wear as well.

I've also worked 4/4 Cotton, it's a smaller, tighter weave fiber producing superior results. Best alternative for creating a smaller placemat or larger mandala; approx 11-12" depending on tension/variables.

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.

Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.

Round 2: Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12 dc-cl, 12 ch2 sp).

Round 3: Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).

Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).

Round 5: Join in any dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).

Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).

Round 7: Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).

Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in same st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).

Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (30 2dc clusters, 30 ch2 sp).

Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *1hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 9, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).

Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).

Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3tr in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).

Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).

Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).

Round 15: You will decrease 1 stitch, four times in this round. Place a marker at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions (saves counting). Join in any hdc, ch 4, (counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round; decreasing 1 st at four marked st(s). Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (150 st).

Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).

Round 17: Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions from this blog post (13 pages if printed directly from this page) with photo blowups in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper.
Follow this link to purchase this 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $2.95!

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FREE Kitty Cat Crochet Blanket & Mouse Pattern

11/21/2023

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Enjoy this FREE PATTERN! Or, download a handy 2 page pdf for printing at the end of this post for $1.95!

This pattern is fun and easy for beginner or advanced crocheters alike. Its small size makes this the purrfect car or travel project; especially if you're visiting friends with a cat!

SKILL LEVEL: Easy (with basic knowledge of crochet techniques).
SIZE: Small; approx. 18” x 24” (46 cm x 60cm). Medium +10 ST; Large +20 ST.
REPEAT: 5 pattern REP, increase as desired to any size in multiples of 5.
GAUGE: Not necessary. Cats don’t care what size their blanket is!
US TERMS

You Will Need
YARN: 10 oz. +/- 4 ply worsted yarn, in 3 colors.
CROCHET HOOKS: I/9 (5.5mm) blanket; 7 (4.5 mm) border.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE

A fun pattern for our fuzzy friends... because cats love blankets too.

Foundation Rows
❍ F1: CH 70 Stitches
❍ F2: DC in the 4th CH from hook, DC in next CH, Skip 4 chains, in the next CH (5th chain) work your “shell” (pattern REP): *2DC, CH1, 2DC, SK 4 CH’s, REP from * across for the width ending the row with 1 DC in each of the last 2 chains, turn.
❍ F3: CH 2, DC in the next DC, work shell: *2DC, CH1, 2DC in the next CH 1 space. REP from * across for the width ending the row with 1 DC in each of the last 2 DC’s, turn.
❍ F4: REP row F3, changing color at the end of the row before turning.

Pattern Repeat Rows

❍ ROW 1: CH 2, DC in the next DC, *Work a Drop Stitch in the space below (before the shell), then work a shell: 2DC, CH1, 2DC in the CH 1 space of the shell from the previous row. REP from * across. Finish row with a drop stitch after the final shell and a DC in each of the last 2 ST(S). Turn.

NOTE: Work your last DC in 2nd chain at the end of each row (see pic) below. You may want to place a stitch marker here when you make the stitch

❍ ROW 2-3: CH 2, DC in the next DC, work *2DC, CH1, 2DC in the next CH 1 Space. REP from * across for the width, 1 DC in each of the last 2 DC, turn. Change color every time you complete row 3.

CONTINUE ROWS 1-3 TO DESIRED LENGTH. For small blanket, approximately 24” (610mm) making sure your end row is the same color as first row. Change to border color, turn. Work “End Border, ROW 1”

❍ END BORDER, ROW 1: CH 2, SC in next ST, *DS in space between shells, SC in the 2 ST(S) before SC space in shell, skip shell space, SC in next ST. Repeat from * ending row with SC’s in last to ST. Change to border color, turn.

❍ END BORDER, ROW 2: Work 1 HDC in each ST to end. Finish off, weave in end.

❍ F1 (BLANKET START CH 70) BORDER, ROW 1: Flip blanket around to the other end (starting chain Row F1). Using same border color work a standing SC and chain 2. SC in next ST. *SC 3 ST around ST in the CH space, 1 SC in shell center, Repeat from * to end of row. Turn.
❍ F1 BORDER, ROW 2: Work 1 HDC in each ST to end. Finish off, weave in end.
Block your blanket before adding fringe

Fringe
Work fringe on each end, back side facing.

❍ Cut a piece of cardboard to 5” X 7” (127mm x 177mm). Mark one of the long sides “cut”, then line up 3 strands of worsted on the cut edge and evenly wind approx 50 times around. Do this loosely without stretching the yarn too much.

❍ Cut the “cut” edge of the yarn while holding all yarn in place on the cardboard until all strands are cut. Unfold them to a neat stack of strands 9-11” long. You’ll have enough fringe for more than one side, wind and cut more yarn, estimating what you’ll need for completion.

❍ Pull 2 or 3 strands from the stack fold in half (ends won’t be even, but will be trimmed later), I usually alternate 2 and 3 strands in random colors for thick fringe with nice knots that lay flat.
❍ Insert a hook through 1st SC and pull the folded strands through making a big loop.
❍ Pull all strands through the loop, then pull all strands gently and adjust to make a smooth knot on the right side of blank

❍ Trim to desired length (shown 3”).

You Will Need
YARN: 4 ply worsted yarn.
CROCHET HOOK: C/2 (2.5mm).
TAIL: 8” (203mm) cord, rawhide or yarn
POLYFIL: Small quantity for body.
CATNIP: 2-3 tablespoons of good stuff.
DETAIL: Black and pink embroidery floss or yarn for eyes and nose.

Body
This mouse is made in rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to mark the beginning of the round.

❍ RND 1: Make a magic ring, SC 4 ST. (4 SC).
❍ RND 2: Work 2 SC in each SC around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in next SC 4 times around. (12 SC).
❍ RND 4: SC evenly around. (12 SC).
❍ RND 5: SC in next 3 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (15 SC)
❍ RND 6 AND 7: SC in each ST around. (15 SC).
❍ RND 8: SC in next 4 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (18 SC).
❍ RND 9: Work 2 SC in each of the next 6 SC (12 SC) to form a tiny hump on the body. Then SC in each of the next 12 ST (12 SC). (24 SC).

❍ INSERT TAIL: Make a big bulky knot in one end of your tail. I love rawhide tails –you can buy scrap bags of rawhide at craft stores, and I find lots of uses for it around the house. Or get creative, use some cord, twine or SC a tail, weaving in one end, making a knot at the other end.

❍ Thread tail through center of the magic ring and pull as tight as possible.

❍ FIRMLY STUFF a bit of Polyfill with a big pinch of catnip on top of the tail. Stuff more polyfill over the catnip. Crochet a couple rows and REPEAT AT LEAST 3 TIMES before finishing. The more catnip the better, right?

❍ RNDS 10 THROUGH 18: SC in each ST around. (24 SC).
❍ RND 19: Decrease (SC in the next SC, SC2TOG) 8 times around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 20 & 21: SC in each ST around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 22: SC2TOG 8 times around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 23: SC2TOG 4 times around, pull to close the hole, finish off.
Work your mouse into shape. Tug the nose pointy, hump faces up, flatten the bottom, mark the center back, eyes, nose with pins. Moving the eyes a tiny bit closer or wider makes a big difference in your mouse’s personality! Set aside.

Ears (make 2)
❍ ROW 1: CH2, Work 3 SC in 2nd CH from hook; in next ST, SC CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 2: SC in first SC, 2 sc in next SC, SC in last SC (4 SC) CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in each of the next SC, SC in last SC. (6SC).

Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!

I hope you enjoy this FREE Pattern (here). If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions and photos you see on this blog post (14 pages if printed directly from this page) in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper.

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $1.95!

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Free Roll-up Travel Shawl Crochet Pattern

10/21/2023

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Throw it in the back of the car so it's always there for lumbar or neck support, chilly restaurants or impromptu picnics. For travel comfort and convenience; it's shawl, pillow and blanket all rolled into one!

This fun stash buster is one crochet shawl everyone can use. Choose easy option one with any repeating pattern or intermediate/advance option 2 for mixed stripes as you go.

BEGINNER CROCHET and BEST OPTION for effortless straight edges choose this option and follow steps 1-8.

Hobby Lobby "I Love This Yarn": Amethyst, Hot Rose, Orange.

Use any repeating pattern of your choice
Work 3, 5 or 7 colors with specified hook for yarn/pattern.
Shown: "Tropighana Crochet Blanket Pattern" free here. This pattern specified 5 colors, I used 3 (less is more).
Or, try: "Diamond Stitch Blanket Crochet Pattern" free here.
Follow steps 1-8, disregarding the "TECHNIQUE" links below which are necessary to achieve straight edges if you choose option #2. With this option, the pattern repeat ensures even edges!

MIXED STRIPES: Intermediate/Advanced. Choose this option if you're an experienced crocheter who doesn't mind frequent counting, a bit of frogging, blocking and some trial and error necessary to fine tune for straight edges.

With a bit of skill, you can work your own combination of colorful waves with sc, hdc, dc, tr –back loop, front loop… add a few granny rows, seed stitches, bobbles and more for variety in your work flow and beautiful textural results.

NOTES
Essential "TECHNIQUE" for working nice straight edges using a variety of (same weight/similar fiber) stash yarns:

You will need 3.5mm - 6mm hooks for following techniques used to achieve even stitches/edges.
All shawls shown use #4 worsted with recommended hook.
Up-size specified hook +1mm for the starting chain as noted.
If a stitch looks too big/bulky or tight/small combined with the previous OR subsequent rows, you frog the row(s) and increase or decrease your hook .5mm and make slight tension adjustments.

Everyone has their own learning preference. I prefer written instruction over videos –choose what works for you. The blue links are one click to your choice of tutorials on that particular "TECHNIQUE" so you’re hooking it in minutes!

Both Options: Please read the entire pattern before starting this project to better understand the process:)

PATTERN
1. Start With 86* Stitches
If following Option #1, *adjust stitch count as specified in your chosen pattern to accomplish a seamless pattern repeat.

I prefer a starting with a STRETCHY FOUNDATION CHAIN also know as a Foundation Double Crochet (Fdc) which doubles as your first row. Finish last row with dc to match row 1.

Make sure you know how to begin and end rows for STRAIGHT EDGES. Here are several video and printed tutorials to cement this easy technique before you start.

CROCHET TENSION affects how straight your edges are. Before starting each session, relax a minute and think about tension. Consistent, relaxed yarn tension allows the fibers to ease into place; forming straighter edges.

I once made a blanket at a "stressful time". After several sessions, I had several rows of very tight stitches (worked under duress?) alternating with a few relaxed rows (less stress that day). Even though I practice straight-edge crochet technique, varying tensions on different days alone made those edges wave.

This quick read sums it up: 9 TIPS FOR CROCHET TENSION SOLUTIONS from thecrochetcrowd.com

2. Count Stitches Often
Especially after doing more complex rows like grannies, bobbles, shells. One or two stitches can be decreased/increased easily towards the end of the current row. If your stitch count is plus or minus more than two stitches, frog back to 86 stitches or starting fdc.

3. Weave Ends

Weave ends frequently to avoid too much weaving at the end of the project. I usually weave 10-12 rows before/after each crochet session after laying the work flat to be sure the edges are as straight as possible. This adds variety to your workflow and makes finishing a breeze.

Try my fast, fun stab ’n jab technique to lock the yarn fibers while reducing tail pop-outs. Use the sharpest yarn darner needle you can find. My favorite is a size 18 with a pointed (not the usual rounded) tip.
Don't weave. Instead, split the fibers by quickly pushing the needle through the thickest portion of stitching about 2-3" in long. Repeat with a second pass back to the edge. Tug these stitches a bit so the fibers relax, then clip the tail close to the edge.
I find this quicker because you don't have to weave through each stitch. Splitting the fibers locks in the fibers so your ends don't pop as much. Have a better way? Do that.

4. Last Row

Stop at 55" for an average person, add or reduce length as necessary.
Fasten off, weave ends.

5. Block it!

Block before crocheting the border. Set your washing machine to low water, cool, gentle/delicate cycle. Add some Eucalan no rinse delicate wash (or sub a couple squirts of dollar store hair conditioner) and agitate a minute to mix.
Submerge shawl and soak overnight; then skip the rinse cycle and spin until most of the water is out.
If soaking in a bucket, press out the water, (don’t wring!). Roll it in an oversized towel and step on it with bare feet a few times. This is a great technique to press out excess water.
Lay the damp shawl over a towel on a flat surface, then gently tug and coax the shawl into a straight rectangle; pushing the stitches from the center to each edge.
Let it dry, then inspect the sides, placing a marker wherever the shawl bumps out slightly. Small bumps will be tamed straight in next step.

Block, then mark "bumps" for taming in step 6.

6. Border Foundation & Finish Rows

Drop hook down 1 full size.
Finish Row 1: Fasten yarn for border in the middle of your last row. Ch 2, hdc in next st, continuing hdc in each st with relaxed tension, to (corner) st. In each corner, work 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc to first st using technique outlined below. Fasten off, weave in end.
Hdc up each side using consistent stitches to match the uniform stitching on your two beginning/end rows. Take your time, this is your foundation for straight edges:

Rule of thumb: Work 1 st in each sc/hdc row, 2 sts in dc rows, 3 sts in tr rows, etc., HOWEVER –when a group of stitches looks uneven, it is! When this happens, frog and rework them, so they’re evenly spaced. Lay your work flat every few inches as you go to check for ripples/bumps. This makes frogging and reworking easy and gratifying if necessary because you’re just frogging/reworking a few stitches. I find this process a fun challenge:

When you approach a (previously marked) "bump," increase your tension slightly as you do a tiny bit wider st placement reverting to relaxed tension when past the bump area.

Count your stitches on all for sides marking each edge with the corresponding stitch count.
Work a second foundation row of relaxed hdc around all 4 sides; increasing/decreasing stitches if required so stitch counts on opposing sides and ends are uniform in number.
If your decreased/increased stitches are greater/lesser than 10 sts, do a third row of sc around to make the adjustments more gradual keeping in mind you may need to pin block one more time when done.
Fasten off, weave in ends

7. Finish End Rows: Buttonhole Placement (2) "a" and "b" (beginning and end rows) are each worked with a different variation.
Both "a" and "b" ends of the shawl are worked with different variations to make the button and loop closure.

First, mark the button/buttonhole placement.
Fold shawl in half lengthwise, lining up all edges. Firmly roll the shawl, then place the extra large button in the center of the rolled edge to determine where the (two) button slits will be worked.
Place a marker or pin on either side of the button twice –on both edges, top and bottom making sure the markers line up as shown. This marks where your buttonhole begins/ends when you work end row b only.

End Row a) = 4 Rows hdc:

a 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
a 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
a 3/4). Repeat row 2 twice more; fasten off, weave end, move to b rows

End row b). = 4 Rows hdc
with variation on rows 3 and 4:

b 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
b 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
b 3). Ch 2, hdc to first marked spot, *skip st. to next marker, making 1 ch for each st skipped, resuming hdc in next marked st*, then continue to second marked buttonhole, repeating * to* end of row, turn.
b 4). Ch 2, hdc to buttonhole chains, working hdc’s over the chains in each spot. Hdc 20 to end of row, fasten off, weave end.
Firmly roll the shawl again and make sure your buttonholes line up before moving to step 8.

Finish Both End Rows With Decorative Edges (2) Both the same, a and b

Finish with your favorite border pattern, there’s a ton of free patterns online, my favorite "roundup" is is at beautifulcrochetstuff.com I chose: "Light Pink Crochet Border". Finish decorative edges on each end a/b, weaving in ends when done.

9. Sew/Reinforced Buttons

Almost done! Fold shawl in half, match edges, then roll the shawl from a to b; rolling firmly without tugging. The buttonholes should line up in the center of the roll when folded. After the firm roll, allow end b to relax a bit so the closure doesn't pull when buttoned, marking the center of the buttonhole on the third layer below for plaement. Shake the shawl open.
Sew an oversized button on that marker through the shawl catching a small button on the other side to stabilize. If the buttonhole is too loose your, blind sew the sides with same yarn or slip stitch crochet around the inside of the buttonhole.

Viola! Now try a stash-busting afghan using the same technique.
Happy Yarning!

Mixed stripe shawls top, bottom left and right.

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Free Embroidery Pattern "Summer Posies"

3/6/2023

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I’ve been on a crochet break lately, revisiting my childhood love of embroidery. Obviously, I’m not an illustrator, and there are similar free patterns on the net, but I wanted to try making this pattern from my head to wear and share.

I found some nice crinkle cotton drawstring pants, sketched the pattern, then had fun embroidering all the french knots I dreamed up! The slacks are cool, comfortable and now elevated with some nature bling; perfect for our next beach getaway.

Want to try my pattern? Click the "Summer Posies" link below and get creative with your own color way. This pattern would be pretty on a dark background and pop on denim.

The pdf download consists of two, 8.5 x 11", pages ready to print (landscape as shown). Page one is a diagram for stitches/colors shown. Page two is the pattern only for tracing. Or try inkjet printing with "Printable Sticky Fabri-Solvy" -it's a bit pricey, but it eliminates tracing!

summer_posies_2-pg.pdf
File Size:	8125 kb
File Type:	pdf

Download File

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FREE Card-Stuffer Mandala Crochet Pattern

11/10/2022

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When my yarning friend Dawn told me she was going to use my Mandala Place Mat pattern to crochet a festive version for holiday card stuffers this year, I was so inspired I had to make some myself!

The original pattern specifies #4 cotton (perfect for 14" place mats); however subbing a finer (#2 weight) cotton using this pattern makes smaller, lighter weight version perfect for card stuffing.

I hit my stash of Hobbii "Rainbow Cotton 8/4" and using the suggest 3mm hook for the yarn, this simple substitution worked a 11" diameter doily weighing 2oz. when stuffed in a 5 x 7" greeting card. Any fingering or sock yarn should do if you have some on hand; and if you use a #2 acrylic yarn, it might be a bit lighter as well.

The colorway I used clashes with the card I had on hand to share Dawns idea; but I’ve plenty of time to find holiday cards with muted colors to shock the heck out of friends/family that haven’t gotten seen a snail mail card from me in YEARS!

I hope you enjoy this free pattern! Just hit this link to the: pattern, sub a #2 yarn and corresponding hook and have some holiday crochet fun! Happy yarning.

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Free Christmas Card Stuffer Coaster Pattern

11/9/2022

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#Destress crochet and festive holiday cards, too!

This year, I’m stuffing my holiday cards with ornament coasters. With all the hustle and bustle, it’s fun to get back to a bit of mindless relaxing crochet while making my holiday cards at bit more fun.

I used Hobby Lobby’s "I Love This Cotton" #4 medium weight 100% cotton which works well when you want a tighter weave coaster. I immediately ignored the (recommended) hook size and drastically (?) downsized to a 3.5mm hook to work a denser fabric and it was smooth hooking.

Then, I tried some (rough) "Sugar and Cream" cotton. It was stiff stitching and needed the bigger hook! Use what works best for you; but try to use cotton any time you make a coaster.

The ornament top/loop are added with HL’s "Soft & Sleek, Silver Sparkle/224" for a little bling. If you're a beginner, you this pattern may help.

Basic Double Crochet Circle Pattern

COASTER:
Rnd 1: Make a magic loop to form a ring. Ch 2, working over end of starting ch and into ring, working 12 dc in ring: join with sl st to first de (join all Rnds in this manner). (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each dc around: join with sl st to first dc. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, dc in next dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next dc) 11 times, join. (36 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, dc in next 2 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) 11 times, join. (48 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, 2 dc in first dc, dc in next 3 dc, (2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc) 11 times, join. (60 dc)
Each Round increases by 12 dc to keep the circle flat. Each repeat inside the perentheses contains 1 additional dc.
ORNAMENT TOP/LOOP:
Rnds 1-3: 6 sc, ch 2 turn (3 times)
Loop: Continue with ch 12 fasten off opposite side to form ornament hanger.

Happy Holiday Yarning!
Paula

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DIY Blocking Board

8/21/2022

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Make this quick and easy blocking board with just a couple tools and scrap wood!

Crocheted (or knit) squares are relaxing and fun. When all your squares are complete the key to assembling your squares for a blanket, pillow or project is uniform squares. Finish several squares, load them onto your blocking board spritzing each square with water as you stack. When the yarning is all done, you’ll have blocked squares ready to assemble with military precision!

Materials

You will need:
• Wood (see note)
• 3, 1/4" x 48" Wooden Dowels
OR Stainless Chopsticks*
• Pencil & Felt Marker
• Ruler
• Power Drill with 1/4" Wood Bit
• A Light Cutter or Small Saw
• Optional Pencil Sharpener
• Sand Paper
• Thompsons Water Seal or spray paint.

WOOD Note: You can use scrap wood on hand cut into a square at least 1" larger than the finished size of your yarn squares. I used a length of 2 x 8 pine cut off to make a 7-1/4" square* which is ideal for these 5-1/2" grannies. However, a larger or smaller piece of scrap wood that's bigger than the finished size of your squares will do. If your scrap wood is thinner in depth, you might want to glue 2 pieces together to make the drill holes deeper to give extra support to the dowels*. The 2" depth shown here is perfect. *Most 2x8 pine boards are 2" deep x 7-1/4" wide; not 8"!?
*Before assembling supplies, see dowel update below.

Assembly

Measure and mark your square accurately corner to corner as shown. Mark the center intersection with a cross.

Mark the center intersection with a cross. Next measure and mark your square at an equal distant around the board from the center point outward as shown. I made this for a 5-1/2" Granny Square project, measuring 2-3/4" out from the center to form a square as shown. Mark a big dot at each of the nine intersections. These are your the drill holes.

Drill each hole testing each hole with a piece of doweling as you go. The dowels should slide in/out easily without being too loose, allow extra space for wood swell (caused by water when you spray your squares). TIP: You can spray the board and dowels with Thompsons Water Seal or paint all the parts to avoid swelling when the project is done!

Two Dowel Options...*

Mark the dowels every 12" and cut. You’ll have 12 stretcher dowels (3 extras). If you have a pencil sharpener, sharpen to a point. Note: this step is not crucial, a smooth flat end works fine.

Sand the dowels smooth so they don’t snag your squares; blunting each end if you made points. Test that they slide easily into the holes; drilling the holes a bit bigger if the dowels don't slide in/out of the drilled holes easily.

Spray the dowels and blocking board with Thompsons Water Seal –or a light spray of paint or poly to seal the wood to prevent swealing when you spray your squares.

*UPDATE! Wooden dowels have worked well as specified for 2+ years; after sanding them smooth as outlined, squares were easy to thread on the dowels, but I'm picky. The yarn didn't slide as well on these dowels as the chopsticks I've always used to hold my square wip. However, most chopsticks are square on one end.

After a deep search on Amazon I found a very inexpensive set of stainless steel chopsticks that perfectly fit the 1/4" holes and they slide like a dream! Here's the link to purchase in sets of 5 (10 Chopsticks:)

Voila, You're Ready To Block!

Multi-size Blocking Board Option

HINT! Use a larger board, and drill several sets of holes to make a multi-size blocking board with drill guide as shown sized to your preferred sizes.

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12 Pointed Star Crochet Tablecloth

8/11/2022

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aka "Paula's #MindlessCrochet, 12 Pointed Star Tablecloth

Varying 1, 2 or 3 rows of each color gives a 3D effect when shot from above.

Despite extensive searching on Google for a "modern" round tablecloth pattern for our kitchen, all I could find were tons of vintage (white) lace tablecloth patterns. While most of these fun and intricate patterns were comprised of circle motifs, which I enjoy making, I didn't want to join them. I was hoping to find a nice, long, relaxing #MindlessCrochet project like this:

Lucky find. Found some cool matching fabric for seat covers/valance.

With a plethora of round pointed afghan projects online, I couldn't believe no tablecloths like this tablecloth in my mind! So I simply downloaded one of hundreds free 12 Pointed Blanket patterns (written for #4 worsted weight) There's lots of free round/pointed blanket patterns on social media and at www.ravelry.com) These patterns adapt well to finer crochet cottons with a smaller hook. Smaller gauge, LOTS of cotton.

Next I busted out my stash of ultra fine cotton and used the recommended hook recommended hook for the yarn I was using. Following the pattern; I kept increasing my "12 Pointed Star Crochet Throw" pattern to 74" diameter tablecloth. VOILA!

Embellish each point with a tassel. I add a little bling, but it looks nice without.

MATERIALS:

28+/- Skeins, assorted colors Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine Sport Weight 100% Cotton*.
3mm Crochet Hook
12 Tassels (DIY!) for each point
12 Large Beads or Jewelry findings for tassels

I can't figure out why there aren't many newer style round tablecloth patterns to be found. If you have one please share. Tag me if you make one!
–Paula

*I purchased most of this cotton from www.loveknitting.com -they stock almost 60 gorgeous colors, have fast shipping, pack in those sweet organdy bags, and offer sales frequently.

UPDATE 8/22/24: I've been loving the price, selection and quality of yarns at hobbii.com for years now. This Denmark based biz ships quickly at competitive pricing usually arriving in 7 (to 10) days! I highly recommed their 8/4 Cotton.

ORIGINAL POST from 11/17/2017, moved from "BOWL BLOG"

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Free Catnip Mouse Crochet Pattern

12/5/2021

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These catnip mice have never failed to get a joyful response from every fun-loving cat they’ve ever met…When I make these mice for friends kitties; I have to hide the work in progress because MY cat will steal them (unfinished!?!) and hide them!

Cats Like Christmas Presents, Too!

You Will Need
YARN: 4 ply worsted yarn.
CROCHET HOOK: C/2 (2.5mm).
TAIL: 8” (203mm) cord, rawhide or yarn
POLYFIL: Small quantity for body.
CATNIP: 2-3 tablespoons of premium organic catnip.
Cats are LOVING this stuff!
DETAIL: Black and pink embroidery floss or yarn for eyes and nose.

I used Hobbi's 8/4 Crochet Cotton (shown) which reduced pilling vs. #4 acrylic

Body
This mouse is made in rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to mark the beginning of the round.

❍ Thread tail through center of the magic ring and pull as tight as possible.

❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss.

Update! The Christmas Mice shown in pic above have felt ears... the crochet version shown here are much easier to make and attach. If you prefer felt ears, cut a small felt square, fold on a diagonal, trim to half circle, cut in half. With matching thread, place small running stitches on straight edge, pull to gather into ear shape, and sew in place.

Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!

If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions and photos on this blog post PLUS, my FREE MOUSE BLANKET PATTERN (scroll down)! This handy 2 page pdf is ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper.

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $1.95!

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Laundering Easy-Care Crocheted Acrylic Blankets & Afghans

9/15/2021

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With gentle care with your blankets and afghans will be beautiful keepsakes to be treasured for years to come!

All my Easy-Care Acrylic Blankets are shipped ready to enjoy! Before every afghan is shipped, It has been soaked overnight in lavender *Eucalan Wool Wash, spin dried on a delicate setting, then laid out with a final straightening on the bed in the spare room to air dry. Laundering is tough on blankets, so skip the temptation to wash it upon receipt.

When your afghan needs laundering, soak overnight in the tub of your washing machine or a tub* with cool water and a mild soap (like baby shampoo or Woolite). If there are stains, spray or spot treat with an all fabric safe spray (like Zout, Oxi-Clean or Spray ’n Wash) prior to soaking.

After an overnight soak, spin dry on delicate stopping as soon as the water is spun out. Your blanket will be almost dry.

Lay it out on a flat surface (a bed is perfect!) and gently shape if necessary. Do not use fabric softeners, bleach or an iron!

After laundering, you may have a couple "tails" pop out. These hardly noticeable yarn ends have been woven twice to lock them in, but washing/spinning can cause a couple ends to work their way out out. Simply weave them back in with a darning needle or tug gently and snip close to afghan after a gentle pull to be sure that tail is long enough to ensure it won’t unrave! Gently work the fibers straight after doing so. It is always best to reweave rather than snip!

*No washing machine? Try this: soak overnight in a large tub, then drain the blanket in a large sink or tub and press out as much water as possible. Do not wring! Fold the blanket between 2 big towels, roll the towels and blanket, put the rolled blanket on a clean floor and gently press more water out by walking or pressing with your bare feet (yes!). This will gently force more water out. Now, unroll the bundle and lay flat to dry following instructions above.

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Yarn Care Hang-Tags Free Download .pdf

8/9/2021

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Don't Forget To Gift Or Sell With Yarn Care Hang Tags!!

Just in time for craft fair season, these yarn care hang tags are perfect for craft show selling or a quick and easy addition to any yarn gift for a professional look.

Download your choice of 2 layouts (below). Both are formatted to 8 1/2" x 11" printing with best results on card stock.

Simply print, trim, punch a hole, then add a yarn or ribbon hanger and check the bubble to hand or machine wash. Enjoy the freebie, happy yarning!

Handmade_Trim_Sheep.pdf
Easy option. These tags are ready to download and print with no customization necessary (sheep graphic at bottom of tag).

handmade_trim_sheep.pdf
File Size:	2922 kb
File Type:	pdf

Download File

Handmade_Trim_Blank.pdf
Advanced option. Download this file for customization -add your logo or message to (blank) bottom of the tag.

handmade_trim_blank.pdf
File Size:	2561 kb
File Type:	pdf

Download File

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Raffia Crochet Bucket Hat

5/26/2021

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This summer classic bucket hats are hot again. I like the simple lines and comfort of this style –the perfect shape for minimal hair-do damage while protecting against high FL humidity in summer. That said, my fave bucket hat was a bit warm and heavy making this the perfect opportunity to crochet a raffia bucket hat for a fraction of the cost of ready-made offerings.

I started by searching "raffia crochet bucket hat patterns" finding tons of free and paid patterns with lots of valuable hints. A few noted how crocheting with raffia is a big tough on the hands, so I started thinking about how I could make this hat fit perfectly without frogging.

Searching the net, I found that most paper raffia came in varying sized spools of paper tightly folded into a 1/4" strand . I settled on a 218 yd Spool of Raffia Paper Craft Ribbon Packing Paper Twine, 1/4" by Creatrill online for $9.99 and only used 1/2 the spool. While this is same type raffia most of the patterns specified, it was obviously quite stiff to work, so I planned to limited my work sessions stretching it out over a few days to protect my hands/wrists!

While planning, Hobbii posted this link to "The Tour" Bucket Hat pattern. It's well written and designed with small, medium and large options using #4 worsted weight yarn. Not made for raffia, but the perfect for technique in the precise shape I was looking for.

So, WHY didn’t I use a raffia bucket hat pattern?

I decided that the right shape (Hobbi) pattern in combination with my (same style, cloth) bucket hat as a template would produce the right fit. Instead of attempting several hooks/swatches to get to correct gauge; I used my hat as a guide to fine tune the pattern for raffia as I worked the hat.

Using the Hobbii pattern to start the crown, it was very easy to adjust the stitch count easily following the structure of the fabric hat to ensure fit. This worked very well –no frogging.

Starting with the recommended 3mm hook for specified Rainbow Cotton 8/8 (comparable to #4 worsted), I could barely pull through stitches, so I moved up to 4.5 hook, (still tough going). Continuing, I discovered a back loop sc (vs. a standard sc) it was much easier and looked nice –and the hook upsizing was hardly detectable

I eventually settled on a 6mm hook, following instructions for the hat crown row by row while checking the diameter after every row before moving to the sides. The hat crown, sides and brim needed less rows than specified in the pattern because the stitches were taller, but I followed the pattern increases and there was no rippling or cupping as I successfully replicated the fabric hat; moving on to the brim following increases and measuring until it was the perfect length. The stitches have rustic appearance, but I like the look for this hat. Surprisingly, it wasn’t obvious that I increased my hook up 3 full sizes!?

I ended up with the most cool, comfortable hat I own, and it’s packable!

I’d love to continue this method to create other favorite shapes and brims... Before I do, I’ll need to find a finer, more supple raffia (or straw)!?

There are some pricey versions on the market that I'd love to try, but only after I get some recommendations from yarners who have found a finer, more grass-like fiber that would be easier to hook and produce a finer stitch pattern… Please share!

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Granny Rectangle Blanket

3/13/2021

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Today, I tried to shot and share how nice and straight this afghan came out but the cat had better ideas and I can’t blame her!

I loved working this Rectangular Granny Blanket from Lion Brand® #SoftSpokenYarn in the "Seashells" colorway. I kept to a very simple pattern to showcase the cool gradients, popping it with a frame of bright white with a furry chenille border. Methinks this one is a keeper!
💭❤️🧶
#yarn #knit #crochet #afghan #blanket #catsofinstagram #HeckathornYarnBowl

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Tropighana Crochet Blanket with Triple Crab Stitch Border

2/10/2021

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Clear simple, one page directions with chart. Scroll to bottom for free download link.

I chose this pattern for a relaxing binge and crochet #wip and this textural afghan didn't disappoint. It's amazing what one one simple stitch and five colors can do!

The long edges on this piece are so even and uniform, I suppressed my usual urge for border finishing to show these edges off. A triple crab stitch border anchored each end of the afghan with a simple twist (see notes below). This one's a winner... relax and crochet away.

My Finishing Variation
Triple Crab Stitch Border
All stash yarn; (4) medium weight worsted (see pattern for new yarn specifics).
Finished dimensions: 40" (101.6 cm) width x 66" (172.72 cm) length

Border (finish ends only)

Row 1: 1 row hdc in start/finish color. I skipped every 3rd stitch of every (3) dc cluster to work a flat even border foundation.
Rows 2-4: Crab stitch 3 rows changing colors each row. Check reverse side on row 2, when you start. Place crab stitch between the previous row stitches (not center of the "v") -when this is done, the border is pretty on both sides.

Grab and print the FREE Pattern here:

https://www.allfreecrochetafghanpatterns.com/Striped-Afghans/Tropighana-Crochet-Blanket-Pattern-Yarnspirations

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8 Crochet Cat Couch Tips!

2/9/2021

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Want to make a Kitty Couch for your cat? Read this first!
Pattern link end of post.

When I stumbled on a free pattern for this cat couch, I knew it was a must make...

1. DOWNLOAD THE MOST RECENT PATTERN UPDATE.

I downloaded the pattern, added it to “next list”, then started it 3 months later. First, I read the entire pattern and had lots of questions. I checked online and discovered the pattern had been revised with an update after I downloaded the first version, answering most of my questions. This is the correct pattern (download link, end of post):

Yarnspirations.com Free "CROCHET KITTY COUCH" #RHC0720-029832M • Revised 9/7/21

The 2nd version of this pattern shown here is well written. The actual crochet is beginner level, relaxing and fun. If you’re good at following step-by-step instructions, constructing assembling the foam couch foundation is easy too, but, read on...

2. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH YARN.

This may be obvious, but it's key. I used stash-yarn because I had lots of navy yarn that went with my living room decor. It always begins that way, right?

It didn't take long to realize I had miscalculated the yarn and needed several more skeins and could only get it on-line (two orders!). So much for stash busting. This pattern requires a LOT of yarn.

After that experience I'd recommend using a value yarn like the Red Heart Supersaver® yarn designated on the pattern. At least for the main portion of the couch (and, I'm not a RH ambassador) but after all, it IS their pattern! It's affordable, washable, durable and easy to find for most. Choose a color similar to your cats dominant color so shedded fur doesn’t show as much.

After completion I had used approximately 35 ozs. of #4 worsted; just under five 7oz. Red Heart Super-Saver® skeins for the base color (gray alone). The picture doesn't look like it takes a lot of yarn, but there is a lot of relaxing crochet that's invisable until you start making the individual pieces!

3. UPHOLSTERY FOAM IS PRICEY, RE-PURPOSE IF YOU CAN.

I realized the “foam foundation” (couch form) should be made before any crochet begins. That way, you can hold each piece up against the corresponding part of the couch to confirm it fits correctly as you go, saving time and frogging. The foam foundation instructions are on page 5 of the pattern –skip to that part first.

On-line, the upholstery foam would cost $60+/- which I expected. After trips to Joanne and Hobby Lobby coupons in-hand, I found upholstery foam to be costly there too, so I resorted to some old cushion foam stashed at home.

I'd had two pieces of high-density foam in the attic. Not the precise measurements, in two different colors, but perfefct for this foam foundation considering the savings. High density upholstery foam is firmer and more expensive, but it's not really necessary for this project because most cats are light, right? If you have something that works, use it.

Following the foam foundation instructions (pgs. 5, 4), mark the exact measurements on craft paper (or newsprint, etc), and cut out pattern pieces. This step makes it easy to lay the pattern out on the foam to see the best cutting layout.

Place the largest pattern pieces on your foam first, then the smaller pieces, moving the pattern parts like a jigsaw puzzle to fit every piece before cutting the foam.

Cut the foam with a serrated bread or steak knife, cutting the sides with the straightest right angles possible trying not to slope those sides.

Then, take a sharpie pen and mark each pattern piece directly onto foam. If you have a key piece that’s a bit too small, consider piecing it with a leftover piece of foam, it won’t show even if the seaming is a bit uneven after gluing. As you can see below, I reallly got piece-happy and saved $60. Remember to cut 2 pieces of foam for armrest.

Cut the foam with a serrated knife, cutting the sides with the straightest right angles possible, trying not to slope those sides as you cut. Relax! With a nice big serrated bread or steak knife, it’s easier than you think. Your crocheted slip cover will be forgiving and cover little irregularities as these photos attest.

The older pattern (that I started with) specified foam glue for assembly. I purchased the upholstery foam glue which looked like Elmers® or tacky glue. It didn’t fuse well, taking over 2 days to dry completely.

The updated pattern (shown above) specified a hot glue gun👍🏻, so I reinforced the weak spots with my hot glue and it bonded firmly, immediately. Don’t use foam glue, it’s inferior to hot glue.

If you have a key piece that’s a bit too small, consider piecing it with a leftover piece of foam.

I painted the form with (water based) latex paint so the (lighter) foam wouldn't show through the stitching.

In the end, it wasn't a necessary step. For other yarn over foam scenarios, it's an option (water based paints ONLY).

Concerned the navy (stash-buster) yarn I chose for my cover would show the (lighter) foam underneath through my stitching, I painted the foam foundation with navy (water based, LATEX) paint. It dried in approx 24 hrs. while I happily crocheted.

In the end, I discovered that the foam didn't show through my stitches, but my sad looking patchwork foundation looked a lot nicer, and I stopped worrying about show through! An easy option if you’re concerned about that.

Final foam note: I used 1/2” foam for the cushions as specified in the first pattern. The revised pattern calls for six pieces of quilt batting, stacking 3 layers in each cushion. Because I had neither on hand, I chose foam for a spongy, firmer cushion –more like an actual couch cushion.

4. TIME TO CROCHET –AFTER A TEST SWATCH!

Depending on the yarn you use and how tight or loose your stitches are, your measurements may not match up to the pattern if you don’t do a gauge test-swatch first.

After choosing my yarn, I made a 4” x 4” [10 cm] swatch as noted on the pattern. My yarn/tension/gauge fit perfectly. If your swatch isn’t 4” x 4”, adjust your hook size to achieve gauge before starting. Take 10 minutes now to avoid an hours of frogging/redo!

Keep checking your work laying it on the foam structure to confirm the fit of each piece as you crochet. After confirming that I was crocheting with correct gauge for my yarn, hook and tension, every piece I made fit perfectly (except when I wasn't paying attention and made mistakes 😳).

Keep checking your work against the foam structure to confirm the fit as you crochet.

**5. MAKE THE COUCH FIRST, THEN THE LITTLE BLANKET.**

This sweet granny square blanket is the icing on the cake. Instructions for the blanket are on page 2, save it for last. Who wants to make a blanket for a couch that isn't made yet?

The sweet granny square blanket is the icing on the cake.

Instead, skip to Couch Seat and Back Cushion on pg. 3; moving on to Back of Couch and Top on pg. 4. As you complete each of these pieces, place it on the couch form to make sure they fit.Checking your work/fit as you go, helps to detect problems (in my case silly mistakes) as you go. Next move on to all the other pieces.

6. A BIT ABOUT COUCH COVER ASSEMBLY.

The assembly diagram on the pattern is all you need to put your couch together, just follow it step-by-step. The instructions say “sew the couch together.” Instead, I used a slip stitch join because I personally find joining easier using a bit smaller hook for most of the seams.

Sewing the bottom to the lower egde of the perimeter strip. And, NO FOAM SHOW-THROUGH!

A slip stitch join on the dust ruffle adds a cording-like look to finish the Dust ruffle seam.

Once the base perimeter strip was attached to the couch, be sure turn the cover right side out, then fit it over the foam foundation permanently. I found it better to skip adding the dust ruffle at this stage, and “sewed the bottom to lower edge of base” first.

Next pin fit the dust ruffle attaching it last. This way, you can be sure the ruffle just barely and evenly meets the floor. Using my slip stitch join on the dust ruffle join made a cording-like finished look, much like a real couch dust ruffle seam. These last 2 joins were made with the lightweight couch sitting easily in my lap.

**7. WARNING: REPETITIVE CROCHET CAN CAUSE TENNIS ELBOW!**

I loved crocheting this project. Countless hours of easy, relaxing crochet is my jam and this was the ultimate. That said, I couldn’t put this #wip down; which resulted in a searing pain shooting down my right arm elbow to wrist and sending me to the net to confirm my suspicions. Yup. My first bout of tennis (or crochet) elbow –something many of us yarn addicts develop at some point. Fortunately, I had to wait for snail mail to deliver more yarn curtailing my crochet frenzy for a few days as the pain faded...

I also ordered an affordable Arm Compression Sleeve which helped reduce the pain for a few days. Now that the project is over and I’m back to variety in my stitching, my tennis elbow hasn’t reoccurred. But, if I ever start a “relaxing crochet project” like this again, I’ll put the compression sleeve on to avoid tendon/muscle pain.

**8. CONSIDER SEWING THE COVER FOR A QUICKER PROJECT!?**

Odd to end on this final note, right? I just can’t help thinking this couch would have been just as cute and much quicker to make if I’d simply cut the couch out of denim fabric. Or, better still home dec fabric that complements my living room furniture fabric. I’m saving the pattern pieces in case I want to update the look with a slipcover in the future 🤭

UPDATE 10/22: The couch is adorable, but a crocheted cover is not great for lounging kitties catching claws and shedding fur! Can't wait to cut this pattern out using a pair of old jeans, for a durable washable update here soon!

Hope this helps you complete a couch for your cat. It’s so much fun to see my kitty lounging where I want her to be –on her own couch!

Download the free pattern HERE.

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Granny Wave Border Blanket

2/8/2021

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There’s a plethora of free Granny Ripple blanket patterns online. I made my variations using Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket", a free 13 page pdf with everything you need to make this in multiple sizes with clear detailed instructions, edging details and charts for the blanket AND the edging. Find out more about Rhonda; the designer and download links at the end of this post.

Just remember... these are rough notes targeted to those who know the basics of crochet. None of it is difficult, but if you don't understand my directions, "google" the term in question for clarification:)

You'll Need:
Lion Mandala Ombré Yarn (for throw size)
4 Cakes Mantra (Aquas/Blues)
2 Cakes Harmony (Lt - Dark Denim Blues)
Hook: 6 mm (J), or size required for gauge
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker
Substitutions: Acrylic Yarns with a Weight of 4 (Medium)
(My) Finished Size 44" 68" +/-(Throw).

How I did it!

Mandala Ombré’s color changes are more subtle than the original: each color gradually blends into the other in both tonal and multi-colored versions. The printing technique allows for some of the cream yarn base to show through, creating a hand-dyed, artisanal effect. Mandala Ombré is slightly thicker than some worsteds, spun with multiple plies of premium acrylic, which give it the look and feel of merino at a fraction of the cost. Soft, springy, yummy!

I started the Healing Granny Ripple Blanket with the darkest* of the "Harmony" yarn for first 6 rows, then switched to the "Mantra" until I got to 6 rows short of my desired length switching back to 6 rows of darkest Harmony to anchor my waves.

*Lion Brand Ombré Cakes have several color bands. Mantra cakes have 6 shades of color while the Harmony cakes had 3 varied tones of the same shade of light to dark blue denim. To create the beginning and end rows, Granny Points and foundation for the blanket edging I wound a ball of each color from the cakes, joining with an invisible knot as necessary, unwinding a cake in each color (larger blankets my require more border yarn).

Now this is "relaxing crochet"!

Used the (darker) Harmony yarn for first and last rows and granny points making a deep contrast to frame the blanket.

Making balls of each color for the border from remaining cakes.

Of course, this wouldn't be complete without a kitty assist...

After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points

Begin with a magic loop.
• Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc on all rounds), 3 dc in ring, ch 1, 4 dc in ring. Fasten off. (8 dc)
• Row 2: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.
• Row 3: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.

Make points, lay them along each long edge making sure the tonal variations in the yarn (my points were made from the darkest of the ombré yarn, but some were lighter). Then stack in order (I use a couple chop sticks) and do an Invisible Join (Google it!?) up the side. Leave 1 - 2 stitches (no more!) between adjacent points where they connect to the blanket, these little spaces will close up and snug the neighboring points together when you add the border.

Edging:
Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket" has pretty edging instructions with a nice chart for reference. I used this pattern, with sc for first few rows, decreasing in the valleys (pulling the little space between the points together), and increasing on the peaks as outlined. I did a slight variation on my final 2 rows of border. Have fun like I did and make this pattern your own!

Download the pattern HERE!

"Healing Ripple Blanket"
Thanks to the pattern designer:
Rhondda is a freelance Crochet Designer and full-time Blogger at Oombawka Design Crochet: oombawkadesigncrochet.com
Here she shares her love of crochet with the online crochet community through her beginner friendly free patterns and tutorials. She currently resides in Ontario, Canada with her husband and two young children. You can also find her patterns on Ravelry as RhonddaM

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Persian Tiles Eastern Jewels Afghan

10/28/2020

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An all-time #favorite to date! 🧶
Designer @janiecrow ’s #PersianTilesEasternJewels is beautifully written with easy, concise instructions/photos resulting in a beautifully constructed pattern -well worth the download for pattern only #StashBusting fun….

I got the kit at us.deramores.com –out-of-stock, but they emailed me when it was in. ✅Incredible VALUE ✅ Really loved working the #stylecraftyarn and their #EasternJewels #colorway
🧶
#Yarn #Crochet #CrochetersOfInstagram #HeckathornYarnBowls #JumboYarnBowls

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Reusable Shopping Bags Make Great Face Masks!

4/13/2020

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Strange times call for different methods... in this case, sewing where my yarning posts usually live. It's been fun to get back to the machine for a bit.

Last week I made masks from woven cotton fabric on hand and shared this nicely thought out mask pattern by CraftPassion.com

Then, testing these masks on warm walks in FL, I found the woven cotton masks too heavy and uncomfortable. I started thinking… What about non-woven polypropylene material? Known for it's breathable, wicking properties I was pretty sure that it was the same fabric as the "HEPA" filter fabric used in vacuum cleaner bags.

What about non-woven polypropylene material found in REUSABLE SHOPPING BAGS?

While not medical grade, the fabric is similar to the fabric used for N95 masks –a bit heavier but when doubled (main fabric and lining fabric), these lighter, more breathable masks are a good alternative to cotton masks, much lighter and easier to breathe.

Non-woven polypropylene is a practical fabric because it is strong and extremely lightweight, comfortable, soft, and commonly used to make surgical masks and gowns.

Here’s one of several articles confirming the viability of turning those bags into DIY face masks: www.msn.com/en-us/news/other/the-best-materials-for-diy-face-masks-and-filters/ar-BB12jzH1
Polypropylene non-woven fibers (used in non-shiny reusable fabric grocery bags, tote bags and wine bags) also make adequate filter fabrics. “This is the same material used in N95 masks, although the thickness and weave are different,” says *Stanford physician Sudeb C. Dalai

DIY face mask pro Juliana Sohn states that "…grocery store tote bags made with non-woven polypropylene have the advantage of being easily laundered, allowing you to use them again and again…."

Many of you many already have "Reusable Shopping Bags" in your car or home. I found mine at the checkout line of a big box store. Each bag (under $1.00) made 4 masks. And, you could squeeze out 5 masks from a lot of bags; I laid these out to show off the cute prints.

Here are some hints/instructions for repurposing reusable shopping bags using CraftPassion.com ’s helpful pattern

Grab a seam ripper and remove the binding before washing.

1. Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the side seams. The binding could be used for a (non-stretchy) tie if you don’t have elastic braid handy!

2. Throw all the shopping bag parts into the washer (hot, cold, doesn’t matter), then in the dryer (these dry quick). The washer/dryer should remove the thread bits, so you don’t have to pick them out or make a mess.

Making multiple masks? Print 4-5 copies of the pattern to get the most out of your fabric.

3. Print four or five copies of the pattern if you're making multiples. This will help plan placement of best parts of the bag if you have prints you want to feature. To me, there wasn’t much difference in size (1/4" +/-?) with Women’s vs. Mens pattern, so I’ve started making them all in women’s size, which fit my husband fine.

4. Make your Main (outside pieces) using the OUTSIDE of the bag. Lining pieces using INSIDE of the bag. I found the inside of my bags to be a bit smoother and nicer next to the face.

The lining (inside) of my bags had a whitish cast and is a bit smoother to the touch. Lay out your lining fabric so it's against the face on finished masks.

5. No pressing necessary! This polypropylene is similar to paper. It creases perfectly! That means you can finger press seams before top stitching for nice clean, crisp edges to topstitch on. Yeay, no pressing.

6. Optional! Zig-Zag 4" length of trimmed pipe cleaner in the seam at the bridge of the nose for closer fit.

Elastic is now scarce. I used mine all up. Here’s the instruction sheet I sent to family/friends with their masks today. You can find elastic in strange places –old workout pants and exercise clothing has great elastic in the waist if you're ready to sacrifice a pair.

If you do have one good length of braided elastic, fit the maske, then pin the elastic together with a small safety pin. If you knot the elastic braid tightly, it’s very hard to undo and you might want to be able to use one piece of precious elastic to change out your stylish masks as the mood suits you!

While these masks are machine washable and withstand dryer heat, I just throw my mask in a bucket of hot water and Dawn, soak for a bit, rinse and put it out in the breeze to air dry. We don't go out often, so this is quick and easy. Remember to avoid handling any mask after use, and get it into hot soapy water or the washer as soon as you're home.

Get fun, be creative, be safe and comfortable –while you're at it, make some for family and friends!

Make them mass production!

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No-Budge Crochet Coasters

1/31/2019

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Sharing a video I created for Instagram Stories. Very frustrating as of this posting, I had learned that the vertical format this was shot in would play in vertical format when posted. Obviously, after a lot of attempts the intended vertical format has not worked, with black space on either side.

Still, some good info here –enjoy! If you know the "fix" let me know 😳Happy Yarning 🧶

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Yarning.

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!​Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $1.95!

Materials

Assembly

Two* Dowel Options...

Voila, You're Ready To Block!

Multi-size Blocking Board Option

Cats Like Christmas Presents, Too!

With gentle care with your blankets and afghans will be beautiful keepsakes to be treasured for years to come!

Don't Forget To Gift Or Sell With Yarn Care Hang Tags!!

Grab and print the FREE Pattern here:

1. DOWNLOAD THE MOST RECENT PATTERN UPDATE.

​2. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH YARN.

3. UPHOLSTERY FOAM IS PRICEY, RE-PURPOSE IF YOU CAN.

4. TIME TO CROCHET –AFTER A TEST SWATCH!

5. MAKE THE COUCH FIRST, THEN THE LITTLE BLANKET.

6. A BIT ABOUT COUCH COVER ASSEMBLY.

​7. WARNING: REPETITIVE CROCHET CAN CAUSE TENNIS ELBOW!

​8. CONSIDER SEWING THE COVER FOR A QUICKER PROJECT!?

​How I did it!

​After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points

Here are some hints/instructions for repurposing reusable shopping bags using CraftPassion.com ’s helpful pattern

Paula Heckathorn

Categories

Archives

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $1.95!

Two Dowel Options...*

2. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH YARN.

**5. MAKE THE COUCH FIRST, THEN THE LITTLE BLANKET.**

**7. WARNING: REPETITIVE CROCHET CAN CAUSE TENNIS ELBOW!**

**8. CONSIDER SEWING THE COVER FOR A QUICKER PROJECT!?**

How I did it!

After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points