Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.

Round 2:  Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12dc-cl, 12 ch1 sp).

Round 3:  Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).

Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).

Round 5: Join in any 2dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to  first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).

Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).

Round 7:  Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).

Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in next st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).

Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (60 2 dc cluster, 30 ch2 sp).

Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 10, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first sc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).

Round 11: Join in any sc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).

Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same sc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3 tr in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).

Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).

Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).

Round 15: Join in any hdc, ch 4, (counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round. Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (152 st).

Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).

Round 17:  Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.

This pattern is fun and easy for beginner or advanced crocheters alike. Its small size makes this the purrfect car or travel project; especially if you're visiting friends with a cat!

❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss. ​

Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!

Your beautiful crochet afghan is done. Straight or assembled from squares; you lay it on the floor and it looks a bit wonky. You kept an eye on the long edges, counted and adjusted stitches, practiced consistent tension, frogged where necessary...

​So, why are there some bumpy and wavy spots up the sides? Why aren't the ends the same length? Because there are two more crucial ​steps! Blocking & Bording!

Blocking and bordering go together like peas and carrots. You’ve spent time working and visualizing this pretty blanket for gifting, home or friends. Now’s the time to finish it with love and some TLC so you're proud of your hard work.

1.   Is your blanket made acrylic or wool (or something else)? Squares, motifs or stripes? Big or small? Each of these factors need to be considered before blocking.

Acrylic yarns don't hold their blocked shape like wool and other natural fibers do. And, while applying a bit of gentle steam when blocking acrylics can tame problem spots, it can also "break" the yarn if you're not careful; resulting in fused (or melted) fibers which make those fibers weak and limp.

I work primarily with acrylic yarns because I need a wide array of colors for yarn bowls photos and acrylics are more affordable than natural fibers. As a result, I've spent a great deal of time perfecting a technique to ease and coax my bumps and waves into straight, smooth borders. I love to crochet, but I’m not an expert. If I don’t finish properly it shows, and that blanket will be stuffed in the back of a closet to torture me whenever I come across it!

2.  ​There's a wealth of fiber and project specific blocking tutorials on the internet. You might want to search “How to block a (wool or acrylic) crochet blanket” to find the method best for your project and fiber type.

3.  If your blanket is made from acrylic fibers, try my method. Soak your blanket overnight in a (portable) plastic tub with lukewarm water with a capful of Eucalan (no rinse!) fine fabric wash; well worth the price and widely available. After soaking, arrange the blanket evenly in your washing machine, pour in the blocking water and give it a nice spin on the delicate cycle. If you don't have a washer, press out the water gently, do not wring!

4.  After the spin cycle, your blanket will feel almost dry. Block your blanket with t-pins, spray with water and let it dry. The longer it sits the better, overnight works well. Plan to spread your blocking and bordering out over a couple days.

This technique works for me. Work it or develop your own and watch a gorgeous blanket emerge from your hook. Before starting, do a little prep work:

Insert Your Foundation Rows Before Your Pattern Calls For Border Row 1
Before you start following the border instructions on your pattern, you can smooth out irregularities (bumps and waves) by adding foundation rows: f1, f2 and occasionally f3 as outlined below.

These inserted rows are the foundation for a straight and square blanket border. If your blanket is a bit  “wonky” this technique will gently straighten your afghan with a nice foundation to finish the blanket with a simple or embellished final border rows as instructed in your pattern.

Most patterns instruct to work a border with “sc evenly around all 4 edges...” assuming you know this rule:
Formula:
Stitch up the (long) edges with

• 1 sc in the end of single crochet rows
• 2 sc in the end of double crochet rows
• 3 sc in the end of treble crochet rows.
• Work 3 st in each corner

1.  Single crochet F1 front facing, using looser tension than usual. Start a couple inches from the corner on an end row establishing an even tension before turning the corner and working the long edge. Work 3 sc in each corner stitch and try using the formula (above).

In theory the formula should work. However, if the prescribed stitches don’t look even to your eye, frog and adjust the stitches so f1 appears to be evenly spaced to your eye (see below).

2.  COUNT your stitches! Place a different color stitch marker on each side. Count the stitches write down the stitch for each side count next to each color as shown below. 

A varying stitch count on your long edges happens when you work your f1 stitches to look even (as opposed to formula method). However, working even f1 and f2 rows (and f3 if necessary) is what gently straightens out your blanket.

This afghan is a good example with a substantial difference of approx. 23+/- st on each of the long edges.

• Blue (Long) = 169 st
• Green (Long  = 146 st
• Red (Short) = 113
• Pink (Short) = 113

After counting your sides, plug in your numbers using this method below to figure increase/decrease count for each long edge:

• 169 st (blue side) less 146 sts (green side) = 23 st.
• Round down to 22 stitches ÷ 2 = 11 st.
• Decrease (-22) st on the blue side
• Increase (+22) st on the green side.
• Ends should have the same stitch count increase or decrease as necessary.

3.  Lay your blanket on the floor and smooth it flat. If you still have some bumps/waves put a straight pin at the start and end of each problem spot. ​This wil help to identify these areas when working the f2 row up close. If you don't have bumps/waves at this point, pat yourself on the back and move on to  step 4.

4.  Evenly mark for increase and decrease st(s) on each side with t-pins –no need to count, just roughly space your t-pins evenly across to indicate placement of upir increase and decrease stitches. You may have a lot of pins in your blanket, but it's a quick and easy way to mark areas that need adjustment. Count if that's easier for you. Now you're ready for f2. 

1.  Start f2 anywhere and sc around, adjusting the pin marked areas as you go. It's best to start at the beginning of your first or last row because you won't have decreases/increases on those rows and you get a feel for the perfect tension before you have move to adjustments on the long edges.

Sc 3 sts in each corner. Try to keep your tension loose if you have a tendency to work tight. Decrease (in my case 11 st on the blue edge) and increase (11 st on green edge) when you reach the corresponding t-pin marker.

2.  Have a full size larger hook handy for (straight) pin marked areas.

• When you reach a bump (out) switch to the larger hook and increase your tension until you get to the pin marking the end of the bump, switching back to the smaller hook.
• When you get to a wave (inward) switch to your larger hook and maintain the same tension, switching to the smaller hook at pin marked end of the wave.

This should gently pull in and remaining bumps and fill in any remaining waves.

3.  As you go, stop and look at your stitches frequently to see if you need to tighten or loosen your tension. If so, frog those stitches and rework for a smooth border without rippling. This is almost fun. As you look back and forward as you work, you don’t have much frogging to rework a problem spot taming it into a nice smooth foundation row.
​
4.  Count each side again and write it down, if your stitches are evenly placed and you have the same count on corresponding sides, move on to border row 1 of your pattern. If your blanket could use more straightening, do a final f3 row, counting then increasing or decreasing where necessary. Adjustments on an f3 row should be minimal but it will enhance your border if you take the time.

This method works well on any crochet blanket, but this techniques really shines when you're faced with waving sides on acrylic afghans. Easing the border on the long edges in the manner, smoothed several spots that would have resulted in bumpy/wavy border. A final blocking was worth the added effort!

​After row f2 and an overnight blocking, I finished with one row of hdc, a second row of dc, then 2 rows of loose sc using 2 strands of white fluffy yarn (Hobby Lobby Snuggle Up).
 
The blue foundation borders represent the sky, while the fluffy white edging represents clouds framing a fun southwestern baby blanket adapted from Red Heart Yarn's "Southwestern Rainbow Throw" scaled to a starting chain of 112 st with a finished measurement of 38"x 54".