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Yarning.

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I just want to sit at home
​and play with my yarn

FREE Crochet Mandala Placemat Pattern

8/23/2022

15 Comments

 
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These fun Mandala Placemats are a quick and easy project. I used “I Love This Cotton” yarn; pattern also works well with acrylic worsted if you prefer. Make 2, 4, 6 or 8 fourteen-inch diameter placemats. And, its extra fun making more than one!
US Terms
You Will Need 
  • 5, 3.5oz skeins 5 colors, #4 worsted weight cotton or acrylic make 4 placements; 14 - 16" diameter*
  • 5mm hook
  • 1 tapestry needle
​
​Abbreviations
st(s) = stitch(s)
​ch = chain
cl = cluster
ch-sp(s) = chain space
sp(s)  = space(s)
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
lps = loops
tr = treble crochet
sp dc = spike double crochet
2dc-cl  = 2 double crochet cluster 
ss = slip stitch    
sk skip
yo yarn over hook
Notes All Rounds:
• All rounds are worked front side facing 
• Pattern repeat in bold type for each round makes pattern reading easy once you know how to start each row.
• Join new yarn at the beginning of each round.
Count/fasten off:
• Count after every round, if stitch count is off, pattern won’t work and you’ll need to inc/dec as necessary or frog!
• Fasten off every, weave in tail in well.
​
SPECIAL STITCHES
Spike dc (sp dc): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch in row below, and draw up a loop to the height of the current row. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice.
​3tr cluster: Yo 2 times, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in same st, yo, pull through st, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times; repeat from *, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook, ch 1.
2dc cluster: Yo, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo. Insert hook into the same stitch, and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo and draw through remaining 3 loops. 
Picot: Ch5, ss to 1st ch.
*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx. 14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns:

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" #4, medium weight 100% cotton in this project, which resulted in 14.5" placemats. Here is the colorway shown on the pattern:
•    306/Dark Denim
•    300/Pale Denim
•    302/Stonewash
•    95/Antique Cream
•    6/White

When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns while an alternative but they won't wash/wear as well. 

I've also worked 4/4 Cotton, it's a smaller, tighter weave fiber producing superior results. Best alternative for creating a smaller placemat or larger mandala; approx 11-12" depending on tension/variables. 

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
​hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
​www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.
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Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.
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Round 2:  Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12 dc-cl, 12 ch2 sp).
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Round 3:  Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).
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Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).
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Round 5: Join in any dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to  first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).
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Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).
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Round 7:  Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).
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Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in same st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).
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Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (30  2dc clusters, 30 ch2 sp).
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Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *1hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 9, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).
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Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).
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Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3tr cl in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).
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Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).
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Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).
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Round 15: You will decrease 1 stitch, four times in this round. Place a marker at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions (saves counting). Join in any hdc, ch 4, (counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round; decreasing 1 st at four marked st(s). Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (150 st). 
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Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).
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Round 17:  Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.
Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions from this blog post (13 pages if printed directly from this page) with photo blowups in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper. 
Follow this link to purchase this 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $2.95!
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15 Comments

DIY Blocking Board

8/21/2022

2 Comments

 
Make this quick and easy blocking board with just a couple tools and scrap wood!
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Crocheted (or knit) squares are relaxing and fun. When all your squares are complete the key to assembling your squares for a blanket, pillow or project is uniform squares. Finish several squares, load them onto your blocking board spritzing each square with water as you stack. When the yarning is all done, you’ll have blocked squares ready to assemble with military precision!

Materials

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You will need:
•  Wood (see note)
•  3, 1/4" x 48" Wooden Dowels
   OR Stainless Chopsticks*
•  Pencil & Felt Marker
•  Ruler
•  Power Drill with 1/4" Wood Bit
•  A Light Cutter or Small Saw
•  Optional Pencil Sharpener
•  Sand Paper
• Thompsons Water Seal or spray paint.
WOOD Note: You can use scrap wood on hand cut into a square at least 1" larger than the finished size of your yarn squares. I used a length of 2 x 8 pine cut off to make a 7-1/4" square* which is ideal for these 5-1/2" grannies. However, a larger or smaller piece of scrap wood that's bigger than the finished size of your squares will do. If your scrap wood is thinner in depth, you might want to glue 2 pieces together to make the drill holes deeper to give extra support to the dowels*. The 2" depth shown here is perfect. *Most 2x8 pine boards are 2" deep x 7-1/4" wide; not 8"!?
*See dowel update below!

Assembly

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Measure and mark your square accurately corner to corner as shown. Mark the center intersection with a cross.
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Mark the center intersection with a cross. Next measure and mark your square at an equal distant around  the board from the center point outward as shown. I made this for a 5-1/2" Granny Square project, measuring 2-3/4" out from the center to form a square as shown. Mark a big dot at each of the nine intersections. These are your the drill holes.
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Drill each hole testing each hole with a piece of doweling as you go. The dowels should slide in/out easily without being too loose, allow extra space for wood swell (caused by water when you spray your squares). TIP: You can spray the board and dowels with Thompsons Water Seal or paint all the parts to avoid swelling when the project is done!

Two* Dowel Options...

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Mark the dowels every 12" and cut. You’ll have 12 stretcher dowels (3 extras). If you have a pencil sharpener, sharpen to a point. Note: this step is not crucial, a smooth flat end works fine.
Sand the dowels smooth so they don’t snag your squares; blunting each end if you made points. Test that they slide easily into the holes; drilling the holes a bit bigger if the dowels don't slide in/out of the drilled holes easily.

Spray the dowels and blocking board with Thompsons Water Seal –or a light spray of paint or poly to seal the wood to prevent swealing when you spray your squares.
*UPDATE! Wooden dowels have worked well as specified for 2+ years; after sanding them smooth as outlined, squares were easy to thread on the dowels, but I'm picky. The yarn didn't slide as well on these dowels as the chopsticks I've always used to hold my square wip. However, most chopsticks are square on one end. 
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After a deep search on Amazon I found a very inexpensive set of stainless steel chopsticks that perfectly fit the 1/4" holes and they slide like a dream! Here's the link to purchase in sets of 5 (10 Chopsticks:) ​

Voila, You're Ready To Block!

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Multi-size Blocking Board Option

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HINT! Use a larger board, and drill several sets of holes to make a multi-size blocking board with drill guide as shown sized to your preferred sizes.
2 Comments

    Paula Heckathorn

    Sharing some yarn fun.

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