https://www.heckathornturnedwood.com/yarning-yarn-tips-free-patterns

Free Roll-up Travel Shawl Crochet Pattern

10/21/2022

Throw it in the back of the car so it's always there for lumbar or neck support, chilly restaurants or impromptu picnic. For travel comfort and convenience; it's shawl, pillow and blanket all rolled into one!

This fun stash buster is one crochet shawl everyone can use. Choose easy option one with any repeating pattern or intermediate/advance option 2 for mixed stripes as you go.

BEGINNER CROCHET: For effortless straight edges choose this option and follow steps 1-8.

Use any repeating pattern of your choice
Work 3, 5 or 7 colors with specified hook for yarn/pattern.
Shown: "Tropighana Crochet Blanket Pattern" free here. This pattern specified 5 colors, I used 3 (less is more).
Or, try: "Diamond Stitch Blanket Crochet Pattern" free here.
Follow steps 1-8, disregarding the "TECHNIQUE" links below which are necessary to achieve straight edges if you choose option #2. With this option, the pattern repeat ensures even edges!

Hobby Lobby "I Love This Yarn": Amethyst, Hot Rose, Orange.

MIXED STRIPES: Intermediate/Advanced. Choose this option if you're an experienced crocheter who doesn't mind frequent counting, a bit of frogging, blocking and some trial and error necessary to fine tune for straight edges.

With a bit of skill, you can work your own combination of colorful waves with sc, hdc, dc, tr –back loop, front loop… add a few granny rows, seed stitches, bobbles and more for variety in your work flow and beautiful textural results.

NOTES
Essential "TECHNIQUE" for working nice straight edges using a variety of (same weight/similar fiber) stash yarns:

You will need 3.5mm - 6mm hooks for following techniques used to achieve even stitches/edges.
All shawls shown use #4 worsted with recommended hook.
Up-size specified hook 1mm for the starting chain as noted.
Any time a stitch looks too big/bulky or tight/small combined with previous/subsequent rows, you will frog that row(s) and increase or decrease your hook .5mm and make slight tension adjustments.

Everyone has their own learning preference. I prefer written instruction over videos –choose what works for you. The blue links are one click to your choice of tutorials on that particular "TECHNIQUE" so you’re hooking it in minutes!

THE PATTERN:
Please read the entire pattern before starting this project to better understand the process:)

1. Start With 86* Stitches
If following Option #1, *adjust stitch count as specified in your chosen pattern to accomplish a seamless pattern repeat.

I prefer a starting with a STRETCHY FOUNDATION CHAIN also know as a Foundation Double Crochet (Fdc) which doubles as your first row. Finish last row with dc to match row 1.

Make sure you know how to begin and end rows for STRAIGHT EDGES. Here are several video and printed tutorials to cement this easy technique before you start.

CROCHET TENSION affects how straight your edges are. Before starting each session, relax a minute and think about tension. Consistent, relaxed yarn tension allows the fibers to ease into place; forming straighter edges.

I once made a blanket at a "stressful time". After several sessions, I had several rows of very tight stitches (worked under duress?) alternating with a few relaxed rows (less stress that day). Even though I practice straight-edge crochet technique, varying tensions on different days alone made those edges wave.

This quick read sums it up: 9 TIPS FOR CROCHET TENSION SOLUTIONS from thecrochetcrowd.com

2. Count Stitches Often
Especially after doing more complex rows like grannies, bobbles, shells. One or two stitches can be decreased/increased easily towards the end of the current row. If your stitch count is plus or minus more than two stitches, frog back to 86 stitches or starting fdc.

3. Weave Ends

Weave ends frequently to avoid too much weaving at the end of the project. I usually weave 10-12 rows before/after each crochet session after laying the work flat to be sure the edges are as straight as possible. This adds variety to your workflow and makes finishing a breeze.

Try my fast, fun stab ’n jab technique to lock the yarn fibers while reducing tail pop-outs. Use the sharpest yarn darner needle you can find. My favorite is a size 18 with a pointed (not the usual rounded) tip.
Don't weave. Instead, split the fibers by quickly pushing the needle through the thickest portion of stitching about 2-3" in long. Repeat with a second pass back to the edge. Tug these stitches a bit so the fibers relax, then clip the tail close to the edge.
I find this quicker because you don't have to weave through each stitch. Splitting the fibers locks in the fibers so your ends don't pop as much. Have a better way? Do that.

4. Last Row

Stop at 55" for an average person, add or reduce length as necessary.
Fasten off, weave ends.

5. Block it!

Block before crocheting the border. Set your washing machine to low water, cool, gentle/delicate cycle. Add some Eucalan no rinse delicate wash (or sub a couple squirts of dollar store hair conditioner) and agitate a minute to mix.
Submerge shawl and soak overnight; then skip the rinse cycle and spin until most of the water is out.
If soaking in a bucket, press out the water, (don’t wring!). Roll it in an oversized towel and step on it with bare feet a few times. This is a great technique to press out excess water.
Lay the damp shawl over a towel on a flat surface, then gently tug and coax the shawl into a straight rectangle; pushing the stitches from the center to each edge.
Let it dry, then inspect the sides, placing a marker wherever the shawl bumps out slightly. Small bumps will be tamed straight in next step.

Block, then mark "bumps" for taming in step 6.

6. Border Foundation & Finish Rows

Drop hook down 1 full size.
Finish Row 1: Fasten yarn for border in the middle of your last row. Ch 2, hdc in next st, continuing hdc in each st with relaxed tension, to (corner) st. In each corner, work 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc to first st using technique outlined below. Fasten off, weave in end.
Hdc up each side using consistent stitches to match the uniform stitching on your two beginning/end rows. Take your time, this is your foundation for straight edges:

Rule of thumb: Work 1 st in each sc/hdc row, 2 sts in dc rows, 3 sts in tr rows, etc., HOWEVER –when a group of stitches looks uneven, it is! When this happens, frog and rework them, so they’re evenly spaced. Lay your work flat every few inches as you go to check for ripples/bumps. This makes frogging and reworking easy and gratifying if necessary because you’re just frogging/reworking a few stitches. I find this process a fun challenge:

When you approach a (previously marked) "bump," increase your tension slightly as you do a tiny bit wider st placement reverting to relaxed tension when past the bump area.

Count your stitches on all for sides marking each edge with the corresponding stitch count.
Work a second foundation row of relaxed hdc around all 4 sides; increasing/decreasing stitches if required so stitch counts on opposing sides and ends are uniform in number.
If your decreased/increased stitches are greater/lesser than 10 sts, do a third row of sc around to make the adjustments more gradual keeping in mind you may need to pin block one more time when done.
Fasten off, weave in ends

7. Finish End Rows: Buttonhole Placement (2) "a" and "b" (beginning and end rows) are each worked with a different variation.
Both "a" and "b" ends of the shawl are worked with different variations to make the button and loop closure.

First, mark the button/buttonhole placement.
Fold shawl in half lengthwise, lining up all edges. Firmly roll the shawl, then place the extra large button in the center of the rolled edge to determine where the (two) button slits will be worked.
Place a marker or pin on either side of the button twice –on both edges, top and bottom making sure the markers line up as shown. This marks where your buttonhole begins/ends when you work end row b only.

End Row a) = 4 Rows hdc:

a 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
a 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
a 3/4). Repeat row 2 twice more; fasten off, weave end, move to b rows

End row b). = 4 Rows hdc
with variation on rows 3 and 4:

b 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
b 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
b 3). Ch 2, hdc to first marked spot, *skip st. to next marker, making 1 ch for each st skipped, resuming hdc in next marked st*, then continue to second marked buttonhole, repeating * to* end of row, turn.
b 4). Ch 2, hdc to buttonhole chains, working hdc’s over the chains in each spot. Hdc 20 to end of row, fasten off, weave end.
Firmly roll the shawl again and make sure your buttonholes line up before moving to step 8.

Finish Both End Rows With Decorative Edges (2) Both the same, a and b

Finish with your favorite border pattern, there’s a ton of free patterns online, my favorite "roundup" is is at beautifulcrochetstuff.com I chose: "Light Pink Crochet Border". Finish decorative edges on each end a/b, weaving in ends when done.

9. Sew/Reinforced Buttons

Almost done! Fold shawl in half, match edges, then roll the shawl from a to b; rolling firmly without tugging. The buttonholes should line up in the center of the roll when folded. After the firm roll, allow end b to relax a bit so the closure doesn't pull when buttoned, marking the center of the buttonhole on the third layer below for plaement. Shake the shawl open.
Sew an oversized button on that marker through the shawl catching a small button on the other side to stabilize. If the buttonhole is too loose your, blind sew the sides with same yarn or slip stitch crochet around the inside of the buttonhole.

Viola! Now try a stash-busting afghan using the same technique.
Happy Yarning!

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FREE Crochet Mandala Placemat Pattern

8/23/2022

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These fun Mandala Placemats are a quick and easy project. I used “I Love This Cotton” yarn; pattern also works well with acrylic worsted if you prefer. Make 2, 4, 6 or 8 fourteen-inch diameter placemats. And, its extra fun making more than one!

US Terms
You Will Need

5, 3.5oz skeins 5 colors, #4 worsted weight cotton or acrylic make 4 placements; 14 - 16" diameter*
5mm hook
1 tapestry needle

Abbreviations
st(s) = stitch(s)
ch = chain
cl = cluster
ch-sp(s) = chain space
sp(s) = space(s)
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
lps = loops
tr = treble crochet
sp dc = spike double crochet
2dc-cl = 2 double crochet cluster
ss = slip stitch
sk skip
yo yarn over hook

Notes All Rounds:
• All rounds are worked front side facing
• Pattern repeat in bold type for each round makes pattern reading easy once you know how to start each row.
• Join new yarn at the beginning of each round.
Count/fasten off:
• Count after every round, if stitch count is off, pattern won’t work and you’ll need to inc/dec as necessary or frog!
• Fasten off every, weave in tail in well.

SPECIAL STITCHES
Spike dc (sp dc): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch in row below, and draw up a loop to the height of the current row. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice.
3tr cluster: Yo 2 times, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times, *yo 2 times, insert hook in same st, yo, pull through st, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 2 times; repeat from *, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook, ch 1.
2dc cluster: Yo, insert hook into stitch and draw up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo. Insert hook into the same stitch, and draw up a loop (4 loops on hook). yo and draw through 2 loops. Yo and draw through remaining 3 loops.
Picot: Ch5, ss to 1st ch.

*PLEASE NOTE! Your choice of yarn and tension will vary the finished size to approx. 14-16" diameter when using different brands of cotton yarns:

I used Hobby Lobbies "I Love This Cotton" #4, medium weight 100% cotton in this project, which resulted in 14.5" placemats. Here is the colorway shown on the pattern:
•   306/Dark Denim
•   300/Pale Denim
•   302/Stonewash
•   95/Antique Cream
•   6/White

When I subbed "Sugar & Cream" or "Peaches & Cream" and crocheted tight (ouch) those yarns produced 16" placements. Acrylic yarns while an alternative but they won't wash/wear as well.

I've also worked 4/4 Cotton, it's a smaller, tighter weave fiber producing superior results. Best alternative for creating a smaller placemat or larger mandala; approx 11-12" depending on tension/variables.

For details and alternatives on choosing #4 cotton yarns check out these helpful posts:
hearthookhome.com/cotton-a-cotton-yarn-comparison-for-crafters/
www.tinycurl.co/2017/09/15/all-about-cotton-yarns/

If you are using these "rougher yarns", you might want to sub double crochet where trebles are specified! Using DK/Fingering weight yarns produced an 11" mandala -a nice oversized doily.

Round 1: Into magic loop, ch3 (counts as first dc), ch1. *1dc, ch1 * repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (12 dc, 12ch1 sp). HINT: keep tail intact from magic circle to easily identify wrong side.

Round 2: Join in any ch1 sp from round 1. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 1dc, ch2. *2dc-cl in next ch1 sp, ch2* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to top first ch3 (12 dc-cl, 12 ch2 sp).

Round 3: Join in any ch2 sp from round 2. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch1 sp. Make 4dc in each ch2sp around. Join with a ss st to the top of first ch3. Count/fasten off (48 dc).

Round 4: Join in any dc from round 3. Ch3, (counts as first dc); 1dc in same st. *dc in next 7 sts; 2 dc in next st* repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to first dc. Count/fasten off (54 dc).

Round 5: Join in any dc from round 4. Ch 2 (counts as first sc). *Ch3, skip 2 st, sc (loosely) in next st*. Repeat from *to * around. On last repeat, ch3 and Join with ss to first sc. Count/fasten off (18 sc, 54 ch).

Round 6: Join in any ch3 sp from round 6. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 3dc in same ch3 sp. *4dc in each ch3 sp*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with ss to the top of the initial ch3. Count/fasten off (72 dc).

Round 7: Join in the 1st dc of any group of 4dc from round 6. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in next 3 sts. Sp dc in the sc of round 5 directly below. *Hdc in the next 4 st, sp dc in the sc of round 6 directly below*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to the top of the initial ch2. Count/fasten off (72 hdc, 18 sp dc).

Round 8: Join in any sp dc from round 7. Ch5 (counts as dc, ch2), dc in same st (1 v-stitch made). *Skip 2 st, dc, ch2, dc in same st*. Repeat from * to * around, and join with ss to 3rd ch first ch5. Count/fasten off (30 v-stitch).

Round 9: Join in any ch2 sp from round 8. Ch3, dc, ch2, 2 dc cluster in same ch2 sp. *2dc cluster, ch2, 2dc cluster in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top of the 1st dc. Count/fasten off (30 2dc clusters, 30 ch2 sp).

Round 10: Join in any ch2 sp from round 9. Ch2 (counts as first hdc) *1hdc in top of next two 2 dc cluster from round 9, 2hdc in next ch2 sp*. Repeat from * to * around and join with ss to top first hdc. Count/fasten off (120 hdc).

Round 11: Join in any hdc from round 10. Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Dc in next 9 st(s). *2dc in next st, dc in next 9 st*. Repeat from * to * around and Join with ss to top first ch3. Count/fasten off (132 dc).

Round 12: Join in any dc, ch4 (counts as first tr), 2tr in the same dc, ch 1, miss 2 sts, *3tr cl in next st, ch 1, miss 2 st*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (44 3tr clusters, 44 ch1 sp).

Round 13: Join in any ch 1 sp, ch3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in the same space, *4 dc in next ch 1sp, 3dc in next ch1 sp*. Repeat from * to * around, join with a ss in 3rd ch of beginning ch3. Count/fasten off (154 dc).

Round 14: Join in any dc, ch 2, (counts as first hdc), hdc in each st to end of round, join with a ss in 2nd ch of beginning ch2. Count/fasten off (154 st).

Round 15: You will decrease 1 stitch, four times in this round. Place a marker at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions (saves counting). Join in any hdc, ch 4, (counts as first tr), tr in each stitch to end of round; decreasing 1 st at four marked st(s). Join with a ss in 4th ch of beginning ch4. Count/fasten off (150 st).

Round 16: Join in any tr, ch 2 (counts as first sc), sk 2 st, *7 dc in next st, sk 2 st, 1sc in next st, sk 2 st*.Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off (25 shells, 25 sc).

Round 17: Join in any sc between ‘shells’, ch2 (counts as first sc), *1 sc in each of next 4 sts (brings you center dc from the shell), 1picot, 1sc in each of next 4 sts*. Repeat from * to * around, join to top of 1st sc with a ss. Count/fasten off, weave in any pesky ends and tail from magic ring on back side. You're Done! Don't skip the most important part...

BLOCK IT! Soak in cool water, squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Place all placements on a flat surface, pull each point straight, gently adjust each placemat so they are all uniform in size and let dry well. No need to pin to blocking boards; this simple method works well.

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions from this blog post (13 pages if printed directly from this page) with photo blowups in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper.
Follow this link to purchase this 2 page pdf with all the details for printing for $2.95!

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FREE Card-Stuffer Mandala Crochet Pattern

11/1/2021

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When my yarning friend Dawn told me she was going to use my Mandala Place Mat pattern to crochet a festive version for holiday card stuffers this year, I was so inspired I had to make some myself!

The original pattern specifies #4 cotton (perfect for 14" place mats); however subbing a finer (#2 weight) cotton using this pattern makes smaller, lighter weight version perfect for card stuffing.

I hit my stash of Hobbii "Rainbow Cotton 8/4" and using the suggest 3mm hook for the yarn, this simple substitution worked a 11" diameter doily weighing 2oz. when stuffed in a 5 x 7" greeting card. Any fingering or sock yarn should do if you have some on hand; and if you use a #2 acrylic yarn, it might be a bit lighter as well.

The colorway I used clashes with the card I had on hand to share Dawns idea; but I’ve plenty of time to find holiday cards with muted colors to shock the heck out of friends/family that haven’t gotten seen a snail mail card from me in YEARS!

I hope you enjoy this free pattern! Just scroll down to the next post for the pattern, sub a #2 yarn and corresponding hook and have some holiday crochet fun! Happy yarning.

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Raffia Crochet Bucket Hat

5/26/2021

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This summer classic bucket hats are hot again. I like the simple lines and comfort of this style –the perfect shape for minimal hair-do damage while protecting against high FL humidity in summer. That said, my fave bucket hat was a bit warm and heavy making this the perfect opportunity to crochet a raffia bucket hat for a fraction of the cost of ready-made offerings.

I started by searching "raffia crochet bucket hat patterns" finding tons of free and paid patterns with lots of valuable hints. A few noted how crocheting with raffia is a big tough on the hands, so I started thinking about how I could make this hat fit perfectly without frogging.

Searching the net, I found that most paper raffia came in varying sized spools of paper tightly folded into a 1/4" strand . I settled on a 218 yd Spool of Raffia Paper Craft Ribbon Packing Paper Twine, 1/4" by Creatrill online for $9.99 and only used 1/2 the spool. While this is same type raffia most of the patterns specified, it was obviously quite stiff to work, so I planned to limited my work sessions stretching it out over a few days to protect my hands/wrists!

While planning, Hobbii posted this link to "The Tour" Bucket Hat pattern. It's well written and designed with small, medium and large options using #4 worsted weight yarn. Not made for raffia, but the perfect for technique in the precise shape I was looking for.

So, WHY didn’t I use a raffia bucket hat pattern?

I decided that the right shape (Hobbi) pattern in combination with my (same style, cloth) bucket hat as a template would produce the right fit. Instead of attempting several hooks/swatches to get to correct gauge; I used my hat as a guide to fine tune the pattern for raffia as I worked the hat.

Using the Hobbii pattern to start the crown, it was very easy to adjust the stitch count easily following the structure of the fabric hat to ensure fit. This worked very well –no frogging.

Starting with the recommended 3mm hook for specified Rainbow Cotton 8/8 (comparable to #4 worsted), I could barely pull through stitches, so I moved up to 4.5 hook, (still tough going). Continuing, I discovered a back loop sc (vs. a standard sc) it was much easier and looked nice –and the hook upsizing was hardly detectable

I eventually settled on a 6mm hook, following instructions for the hat crown row by row while checking the diameter after every row before moving to the sides. The hat crown, sides and brim needed less rows than specified in the pattern because the stitches were taller, but I followed the pattern increases and there was no rippling or cupping as I successfully replicated the fabric hat; moving on to the brim following increases and measuring until it was the perfect length. The stitches have rustic appearance, but I like the look for this hat. Surprisingly, it wasn’t obvious that I increased my hook up 3 full sizes!?

I ended up with the most cool, comfortable hat I own, and it’s packable!

I’d love to continue this method to create other favorite shapes and brims... Before I do, I’ll need to find a finer, more supple raffia (or straw)!?

There are some pricey versions on the market that I'd love to try, but only after I get some recommendations from yarners who have found a finer, more grass-like fiber that would be easier to hook and produce a finer stitch pattern… Please share!

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Tropighana Crochet Blanket with Triple Crab Stitch Border

2/10/2021

2 Comments

Clear simple, one page directions with chart. Scroll to bottom for free download link.

I chose this pattern for a relaxing binge and crochet #wip and this textural afghan didn't disappoint. It's amazing what one one simple stitch and five colors can do!

The long edges on this piece are so even and uniform, I suppressed my usual urge for border finishing to show these edges off. A triple crab stitch border anchored each end of the afghan with a simple twist (see notes below). This one's a winner... relax and crochet away.

My Finishing Variation
Triple Crab Stitch Border
All stash yarn; (4) medium weight worsted (see pattern for new yarn specifics).
Finished dimensions: 40" (101.6 cm) width x 66" (172.72 cm) length

Border (finish ends only)

Row 1: 1 row hdc in start/finish color. I skipped every 3rd stitch of every (3) dc cluster to work a flat even border foundation.
Rows 2-4: Crab stitch 3 rows changing colors each row. Check reverse side on row 2, when you start. Place crab stitch between the previous row stitches (not center of the "v") -when this is done, the border is pretty on both sides.

Grab and print the FREE Pattern here:

https://www.allfreecrochetafghanpatterns.com/Striped-Afghans/Tropighana-Crochet-Blanket-Pattern-Yarnspirations

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Granny Wave Border Blanket

2/8/2021

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There’s a plethora of free Granny Ripple blanket patterns online. I made my variations using Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket", a free 13 page pdf with everything you need to make this in multiple sizes with clear detailed instructions, edging details and charts for the blanket AND the edging. Find out more about Rhonda; the designer and download links at the end of this post.

Just remember... these are rough notes targeted to those who know the basics of crochet. None of it is difficult, but if you don't understand my directions, "google" the term in question for clarification:)

You'll Need:
Lion Mandala Ombré Yarn (for throw size)
4 Cakes Mantra (Aquas/Blues)
2 Cakes Harmony (Lt - Dark Denim Blues)
Hook: 6 mm (J), or size required for gauge
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker
Substitutions: Acrylic Yarns with a Weight of 4 (Medium)
(My) Finished Size 44" 68" +/-(Throw).

How I did it!

Mandala Ombré’s color changes are more subtle than the original: each color gradually blends into the other in both tonal and multi-colored versions. The printing technique allows for some of the cream yarn base to show through, creating a hand-dyed, artisanal effect. Mandala Ombré is slightly thicker than some worsteds, spun with multiple plies of premium acrylic, which give it the look and feel of merino at a fraction of the cost. Soft, springy, yummy!

I started the Healing Granny Ripple Blanket with the darkest* of the "Harmony" yarn for first 6 rows, then switched to the "Mantra" until I got to 6 rows short of my desired length switching back to 6 rows of darkest Harmony to anchor my waves.

*Lion Brand Ombré Cakes have several color bands. Mantra cakes have 6 shades of color while the Harmony cakes had 3 varied tones of the same shade of light to dark blue denim. To create the beginning and end rows, Granny Points and foundation for the blanket edging I wound a ball of each color from the cakes, joining with an invisible knot as necessary, unwinding a cake in each color (larger blankets my require more border yarn).

Now this is "relaxing crochet"!

Used the (darker) Harmony yarn for first and last rows and granny points making a deep contrast to frame the blanket.

Making balls of each color for the border from remaining cakes.

Of course, this wouldn't be complete without a kitty assist...

After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points

Begin with a magic loop.
• Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc on all rounds), 3 dc in ring, ch 1, 4 dc in ring. Fasten off. (8 dc)
• Row 2: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.
• Row 3: Join yarn in top of ch-3, ch 3, 3 dc in same stitch, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space, skip next 3 dc, 3 dc in space before next 3-dc group, skip 3 dc, 4 dc in last dc. Fasten off.

Make points, lay them along each long edge making sure the tonal variations in the yarn (my points were made from the darkest of the ombré yarn, but some were lighter). Then stack in order (I use a couple chop sticks) and do an Invisible Join (Google it!?) up the side. Leave 1 - 2 stitches (no more!) between adjacent points where they connect to the blanket, these little spaces will close up and snug the neighboring points together when you add the border.

Edging:
Oombawka Designs "Healing Granny Ripple Blanket" has pretty edging instructions with a nice chart for reference. I used this pattern, with sc for first few rows, decreasing in the valleys (pulling the little space between the points together), and increasing on the peaks as outlined. I did a slight variation on my final 2 rows of border. Have fun like I did and make this pattern your own!

Download the pattern HERE!

"Healing Ripple Blanket"
Thanks to the pattern designer:
Rhondda is a freelance Crochet Designer and full-time Blogger at Oombawka Design Crochet: oombawkadesigncrochet.com
Here she shares her love of crochet with the online crochet community through her beginner friendly free patterns and tutorials. She currently resides in Ontario, Canada with her husband and two young children. You can also find her patterns on Ravelry as RhonddaM

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Yarning.

Free Roll-up Travel Shawl Crochet Pattern

FREE Crochet Mandala Placemat Pattern

FREE Card-Stuffer Mandala Crochet Pattern

Raffia Crochet Bucket Hat

Tropighana Crochet Blanket with Triple Crab Stitch Border

Grab and print the FREE Pattern here:

Granny Wave Border Blanket

How I did it!

After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points

Download the pattern HERE!

Paula Heckathorn

Categories

Archives

Yarning.

Free Roll-up Travel Shawl Crochet Pattern

FREE Crochet Mandala Placemat Pattern

FREE Card-Stuffer Mandala Crochet Pattern

Raffia Crochet Bucket Hat

Tropighana Crochet Blanket with Triple Crab Stitch Border

Grab and print the FREE Pattern here:

Granny Wave Border Blanket

​How I did it!

​After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points

Download the pattern HERE!

Paula Heckathorn

Categories

Archives

How I did it!

After the blanket is complete make your Granny Points