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I just want to sit at home
​and play with my yarn

Free Catnip Mouse Crochet Pattern

12/5/2021

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These catnip mice have never failed to get a joyful response from every fun-loving cat they’ve ever met…When I make these mice for friends kitties; I have to hide the work in progress because MY cat will steal them (unfinished!?!) and hide them!
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Cats Like Christmas Presents, Too!

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You Will Need
​
YARN: 4 ply worsted yarn. 
CROCHET HOOK: C/2 (2.5mm).
TAIL: 8” (203mm) cord, rawhide or yarn
POLYFIL: Small quantity for body.
CATNIP: 2-3 tablespoons of premium organic catnip.
Cats are LOVING this stuff! 
DETAIL: Black and pink embroidery floss or yarn for eyes and nose.
I used Hobbi's 8/4 Crochet Cotton (shown) which reduced pilling vs. #4 acrylic
Body
​
This mouse is made in rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to mark the beginning of the round.
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❍ RND 1: Make a magic ring, SC 4 ST. (4 SC).
❍ RND 2: Work 2 SC in each SC around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in next SC 4 times around. (12 SC). 
❍ RND 4: SC evenly around. (12 SC).
❍ RND 5: SC in next 3 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (15 SC) 
❍ RND 6 AND 7: SC in each ST around. (15 SC).
❍ RND 8: SC in next 4 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (18 SC).
❍ RND 9: Work 2 SC in each of the next 6 SC (12 SC) to form a tiny hump on the body. Then SC in each of the next 12 ST (12 SC). (24 SC).
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❍ INSERT TAIL: Make a big bulky knot in one end of your tail. I love rawhide tails –you can buy scrap bags of rawhide at craft stores, and I find lots of uses for it around the house. Or get creative, use some cord, twine or SC a tail, weaving in one end, making a knot at the other end.
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❍ Thread tail through center of the magic ring and pull as tight as possible. 
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❍ FIRMLY STUFF a bit of Polyfill with a big pinch of catnip on top of the tail. Stuff more polyfill over the catnip. Crochet a couple rows and REPEAT AT LEAST 3 TIMES before finishing. The more catnip the better, right?

❍ RNDS 10 THROUGH 18: SC in each ST around. (24 SC).
❍ RND 19: Decrease (SC in the next SC, SC2TOG) 8 times around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 20 & 21: SC in each ST around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 22: SC2TOG 8 times around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 23: SC2TOG 4 times around, pull to close the hole, finish off.
Work your mouse into shape. Tug the nose pointy, hump faces up, flatten the bottom, mark the center back, eyes, nose with pins. Moving the eyes a tiny bit closer or wider makes a big difference in your mouse’s personality! Set aside.
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Ears (make 2)
❍ ROW 1: CH2, Work 3 SC in 2nd CH from hook; in next ST, SC CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 2: SC in first SC, 2 sc in next SC, SC in last SC (4 SC) CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in each of the next SC, SC in last SC. (6SC)
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❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss. ​

Update! The Christmas Mice shown in pic above have felt ears... the crochet version shown here are much easier to make and attach. If you prefer felt ears, cut a small felt square, fold on a diagonal, trim to half circle, cut in half. With matching thread, place small running stitches on straight edge, pull to gather into ear shape, and sew in place.

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Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!
If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions and photos on this blog post PLUS, my FREE MOUSE BLANKET PATTERN (scroll down)! This handy 2 page pdf is ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper. 
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Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
​Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing  for $1.95!
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FREE Kitty Cat Crochet Blanket & Mouse Pattern

7/5/2021

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Enjoy this FREE PATTERN! Or, download a handy 2 page pdf for printing at the end of this post for $1.95!
This pattern is fun and easy for beginner or advanced crocheters alike. Its small size makes this the purrfect car or travel project; especially if you're visiting friends with a cat!
SKILL LEVEL: Easy (with basic knowledge of crochet techniques).
SIZE: Small; approx. 18” x 24” (46 cm x 60cm). Medium +10 ST; Large +20 ST.
REPEAT: 5 pattern REP, increase as desired to any size in multiples of 5.
GAUGE: Not necessary. Cats don’t care what size their blanket is!
US TERMS
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​You Will Need
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YARN: 10 oz. +/- 4 ply worsted yarn, in 3 colors.
CROCHET HOOKS: I/9 (5.5mm) blanket; 7 (4.5 mm) border.
TAPESTRY NEEDLE
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A fun pattern for our fuzzy friends...  because cats love blankets too.
Foundation Rows
❍ F1: CH 70 Stitches 
❍ F2: DC in the 4th CH from hook, DC in next CH, Skip 4 chains, in the next CH (5th chain) work your “shell” (pattern REP): *2DC, CH1, 2DC, SK 4 CH’s, REP from * across for the width ending the row with 1 DC in each of the last 2 chains, turn.
❍ F3: CH 2, DC in the next DC, work shell: *2DC, CH1, 2DC in the next CH 1 space. REP from * across for the width ending the row with 1 DC in each of the last 2 DC’s, turn.
❍ F4: REP row F3, changing color at the end of the row before turning.
Pattern Repeat Rows
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❍ ROW 1: CH 2, DC in the next DC, *Work a Drop Stitch in the space below (before the shell), then work a shell: 2DC, CH1, 2DC in the CH 1 space of the shell from the previous row. REP from * across. Finish row with a drop stitch after the final shell and a DC in each of the last 2 ST(S). Turn.
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NOTE: Work your last DC in 2nd chain at the end of each row (see pic) below. You may want to place a stitch marker here when you make the stitch
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❍ ROW 2-3: CH 2, DC in the next DC, work *2DC, CH1, 2DC in the next CH 1 Space. REP from * across for the width, 1 DC in each of the last 2 DC, turn. Change color every time you complete row 3.
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CONTINUE ROWS 1-3 TO DESIRED LENGTH. For small blanket, approximately 24” (610mm) making sure your end row is the same color as first row. Change to border color, turn. Work “End Border, ROW 1”
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❍ END BORDER, ROW 1: CH 2, SC in next ST, *DS in space between shells, SC in the 2 ST(S) before SC space in shell, skip shell space, SC in next ST. Repeat from * ending row with SC’s in last to ST. Change to border color, turn.

​❍
 END BORDER, ROW 2: Work 1 HDC in each ST to end. Finish off, weave in end.
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❍ F1 (BLANKET START CH 70) BORDER, ROW 1: Flip blanket around to the other end (starting chain Row F1). Using same border color work a standing SC and chain 2. SC in next ST. *SC 3 ST around ST in the CH space, 1 SC in shell center, Repeat from * to end of row. Turn.
❍ F1 BORDER, ROW 2: Work 1 HDC in each ST to end. Finish off, weave in end.
Block your blanket before adding fringe

Fringe
Work fringe on each end, back side facing.
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❍ Cut a piece of cardboard to 5” X 7” (127mm x 177mm). Mark one of the long sides “cut”, then line up 3 strands of worsted on the cut edge and evenly wind approx 50 times around. Do this loosely without stretching the yarn too much.

❍
 Cut the “cut” edge of the yarn while holding all yarn in place on the cardboard until all strands are cut. Unfold them to a neat stack of strands 9-11” long. You’ll have enough fringe for more than one side, wind and cut more yarn, estimating what you’ll need for completion.
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❍ Pull 2 or 3 strands from the stack fold in half (ends won’t be even, but will be trimmed later), I usually alternate 2 and 3 strands in random colors for thick fringe with nice knots that lay flat.
❍ Insert a hook through 1st SC and pull the folded strands through making a big loop.
❍ Pull all strands through the loop, then pull all strands gently and adjust to make a smooth knot on the right side of blank
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❍ Trim to desired length (shown 3”).
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You Will Need
​
YARN: 4 ply worsted yarn. 
CROCHET HOOK: C/2 (2.5mm).
TAIL: 8” (203mm) cord, rawhide or yarn
POLYFIL: Small quantity for body.
CATNIP: 2-3 tablespoons of good stuff.
DETAIL: Black and pink embroidery floss or yarn for eyes and nose.
Body
​
This mouse is made in rounds. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to mark the beginning of the round.
Picture
❍ RND 1: Make a magic ring, SC 4 ST. (4 SC).
❍ RND 2: Work 2 SC in each SC around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in next SC 4 times around. (12 SC). 
❍ RND 4: SC evenly around. (12 SC).
❍ RND 5: SC in next 3 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (15 SC) 
❍ RND 6 AND 7: SC in each ST around. (15 SC).
❍ RND 8: SC in next 4 SC, 2 SC in next SC 3 times around. (18 SC).
❍ RND 9: Work 2 SC in each of the next 6 SC (12 SC) to form a tiny hump on the body. Then SC in each of the next 12 ST (12 SC). (24 SC).
Picture
❍ INSERT TAIL: Make a big bulky knot in one end of your tail. I love rawhide tails –you can buy scrap bags of rawhide at craft stores, and I find lots of uses for it around the house. Or get creative, use some cord, twine or SC a tail, weaving in one end, making a knot at the other end.

Picture
❍ Thread tail through center of the magic ring and pull as tight as possible. 
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❍ FIRMLY STUFF a bit of Polyfill with a big pinch of catnip on top of the tail. Stuff more polyfill over the catnip. Crochet a couple rows and REPEAT AT LEAST 3 TIMES before finishing. The more catnip the better, right?

❍ RNDS 10 THROUGH 18: SC in each ST around. (24 SC).
❍ RND 19: Decrease (SC in the next SC, SC2TOG) 8 times around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 20 & 21: SC in each ST around. (16 SC).
❍ RND 22: SC2TOG 8 times around. (8 SC).
❍ RND 23: SC2TOG 4 times around, pull to close the hole, finish off.
Work your mouse into shape. Tug the nose pointy, hump faces up, flatten the bottom, mark the center back, eyes, nose with pins. Moving the eyes a tiny bit closer or wider makes a big difference in your mouse’s personality! Set aside.
Picture
Ears (make 2)
❍ ROW 1: CH2, Work 3 SC in 2nd CH from hook; in next ST, SC CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 2: SC in first SC, 2 sc in next SC, SC in last SC (4 SC) CH 1, turn.
❍ ROW 3: SC in first SC, 2 SC in each of the next SC, SC in last SC. (6SC).
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❍ FASTEN OFF, leaving approx. 9” (228mm) yarn to sew each ear into the body.
❍ MARK PLACEMENT of the ears with pins (around rows 6-8).
❍ SEW EARS IN PLACE nice and tight using the yarn tails. Adjust eye pins for placement, then embroider in black for each eye, and pink for the nose and inside ears with yarn or embroidery floss. ​
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Your Catnip Mouse is Ready to Play!
I hope you enjoy this FREE Pattern (here). If you prefer to work with printed patterns; this easy-to-follow instant download will have you starting this fun project within minutes! Pattern download includes all directions and photos you see on this blog post (14 pages if printed directly from this page) in a handy 2 page pdf ready to travel or read without a screen or wasting ink and paper. 

Enjoy this FREE PATTERN!
​Or, follow this link to download a handy 2 page pdf with all the details for printing  for $1.95!

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8 Crochet Cat Couch Tips!

2/9/2021

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Want to make a Kitty Couch for your cat? Read this first!
​Pattern link end of post.
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When I stumbled on a free pattern for this cat couch, I knew it was a must make...

1. DOWNLOAD THE MOST RECENT PATTERN UPDATE.

I downloaded the pattern, added it to “next list”, then started it 3 months later. First, I read the entire pattern and had lots of questions. I checked online and discovered the pattern had been revised with an update after I downloaded the first version, answering most of my questions. This is the correct pattern (download link, end of post):
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Yarnspirations.com Free "CROCHET KITTY COUCH" #RHC0720-029832M • Revised 9/7/21
The 2nd version of this pattern shown here is well written. The actual crochet is beginner level, relaxing and fun. If you’re good at following step-by-step instructions, constructing assembling the foam couch foundation is easy too, but, read on... 

​2. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH YARN.

This may be obvious, but it's key. I used stash-yarn because I had lots of navy yarn that went with my living room decor. It always begins that way, right?

It didn't take long to realize I had miscalculated the yarn and needed several more skeins and could only get it on-line (two orders!). So much for stash busting. This pattern requires a LOT of yarn.


After that experience I'd recommend using a value yarn like the Red Heart Supersaver® yarn designated on the pattern. At least for the main portion of the couch (and, I'm not a RH ambassador) but after all, it IS their pattern! It's affordable, washable, durable and easy to find for most. Choose a color similar to your cats dominant color so shedded fur doesn’t show as much. 

After completion I had used approximately 35 ozs. of #4 worsted; just under five 7oz. Red Heart Super-Saver® skeins for the base color (gray alone). The picture doesn't look like it takes a lot of yarn, but there is a lot of relaxing crochet that's invisable until you start making the individual pieces!

3. UPHOLSTERY FOAM IS PRICEY,  RE-PURPOSE IF YOU CAN.

I realized the “foam foundation” (couch form) should be made before any crochet begins. That way, you can hold each piece up against the corresponding part of the couch to confirm it fits correctly as you go, saving time and frogging. The foam foundation instructions are on page 5 of the pattern –skip to that part first.

On-line, the upholstery foam would cost  $60+/- which I expected. After trips to Joanne and Hobby Lobby coupons in-hand, I found upholstery foam to be costly there too, so I resorted to some old cushion foam stashed at home.

I'd had two pieces of high-density foam in the attic. Not the precise measurements, in two different colors, but perfefct for this foam foundation considering the savings. High density upholstery foam is firmer and more expensive, but it's not really necessary for this project because most cats are light, right? If you have something that works, use it.

Following the foam foundation instructions (pgs. 5, 4), mark the exact measurements on craft paper (or newsprint, etc), and cut out pattern pieces. This step makes it easy to lay the pattern out on the foam to see the best cutting layout.

Place the largest pattern pieces on your foam first, then the smaller pieces, moving the pattern parts like a jigsaw puzzle to fit every piece before cutting the foam.
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Cut the foam with a serrated bread or steak knife, cutting the sides with the straightest right angles possible trying not to slope those sides.
Then, take a sharpie pen and mark each pattern piece directly onto foam. If you have a key piece that’s a bit too small, consider piecing it with a leftover piece of foam, it won’t show even if the seaming is a bit uneven after gluing. As you can see below, I reallly got piece-happy and saved $60. Remember to cut 2 pieces of foam for armrest.

Cut the foam with a serrated knife, cutting the sides with the straightest right angles possible, trying not to slope those sides as you cut. Relax! With a nice big serrated bread or steak knife, it’s easier than you think. Your crocheted slip cover will be forgiving and cover little irregularities as these photos attest.

The older pattern (that I started with) specified foam glue for assembly. I purchased the upholstery foam glue which looked like Elmers® or tacky glue. It didn’t  fuse well, taking over 2 days to dry completely.

The updated pattern (shown above) specified a hot glue gun👍🏻, so I reinforced the weak spots with my hot glue and it bonded firmly, immediately. Don’t use foam glue, it’s inferior to hot glue.
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If you have a key piece that’s a bit too small, consider piecing it with a leftover piece of foam.
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I painted the form with (water based) latex paint so the (lighter) foam wouldn't show through the stitching.
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In the end, it wasn't a necessary step. For other yarn over foam scenarios, it's an option (water based paints ONLY).
Concerned the navy (stash-buster) yarn I chose for my cover would show the (lighter) foam underneath through my stitching, I painted the foam foundation with navy (water based, LATEX) paint. It dried in approx 24 hrs. while I happily crocheted.

In the end, I discovered that the foam didn't show through my stitches, but  my sad looking patchwork foundation looked  a lot nicer, and I stopped worrying about show through! An easy option if you’re concerned about that.

Final foam note: I used 1/2” foam for the cushions as specified in the first pattern. The revised pattern calls for six pieces of quilt batting, stacking 3 layers in each cushion.  Because I had neither on hand, I chose foam for a spongy, firmer cushion –more like an actual couch cushion.

4. TIME TO CROCHET –AFTER A TEST SWATCH!

Depending on the yarn you use and how tight or loose your stitches are, your measurements may not match up to the pattern if you don’t do a gauge test-swatch first.

After choosing my yarn, I made a 4” x 4” [10 cm] swatch as noted on the pattern. My yarn/tension/gauge fit perfectly. If your swatch isn’t 4” x 4”, adjust your hook size to achieve gauge before starting. Take 10 minutes now to avoid an hours of frogging/redo! 

Keep checking your work laying it on the foam structure to confirm the fit of each piece as you crochet. After confirming that I was crocheting with correct gauge for my yarn, hook and tension, every piece I made fit perfectly (except when I wasn't paying attention and made mistakes 😳).
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Keep checking your work against the foam structure to confirm the fit as you crochet.

5. MAKE THE COUCH FIRST, THEN THE LITTLE BLANKET.

This sweet granny square blanket is the icing on the cake. Instructions for the blanket are on page 2, save it for last. Who wants to make a blanket for a couch that isn't made yet?
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The sweet granny square blanket is the icing on the cake.
Instead, skip to Couch Seat and Back Cushion on pg. 3; moving on to Back of Couch and Top  on pg. 4. As you complete each of these pieces, place it on the couch form to make sure they fit.Checking your work/fit as you go, helps to detect problems (in my case silly mistakes) as you go. Next move on to all the other pieces.

6. A BIT ABOUT COUCH COVER ASSEMBLY.

The assembly diagram on the pattern is all you need to put your couch together, just follow  it step-by-step. The instructions say “sew the couch together.” Instead, I used a slip stitch join because I personally find joining easier using a bit smaller hook for most of the seams.
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Sewing the bottom to the lower egde of the perimeter strip. And, NO FOAM SHOW-THROUGH!
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A slip stitch join on the dust ruffle adds a cording-like look to finish the Dust ruffle seam.
Once the base perimeter strip was attached to the couch, be sure turn the cover right side out, then fit it over the foam foundation permanently. I found it better to skip adding the dust ruffle at this stage, and “sewed the bottom to lower edge of base” first.

Next pin fit the dust ruffle attaching it last. This way, you can be sure the ruffle just barely and evenly meets the floor. Using my slip stitch join on the dust ruffle join made a cording-like finished look, much like a real couch dust ruffle seam. These last 2 joins were made with the lightweight couch sitting easily in my lap.

​7. WARNING: REPETITIVE CROCHET CAN CAUSE TENNIS ELBOW!

I loved crocheting this project. Countless hours of easy, relaxing crochet is my jam and this was the ultimate. That said, I couldn’t put this #wip down; which resulted in a searing pain shooting down my right arm elbow to wrist and sending me to the net to confirm my suspicions. Yup. My first bout of tennis (or crochet) elbow –something many of us yarn addicts develop at some point. Fortunately, I had to wait for snail mail to deliver more yarn curtailing my crochet frenzy for a few days as the pain faded...

I also ordered an affordable Arm Compression Sleeve which helped reduce the pain for a few days. Now that the project is over and I’m back to variety in my stitching, my tennis elbow hasn’t reoccurred. But, if I ever start a “relaxing crochet project” like this again, I’ll put the compression sleeve on to avoid tendon/muscle pain.

​8. CONSIDER SEWING THE COVER FOR A QUICKER PROJECT!?

Odd to end on this final note, right? I just can’t help thinking this couch would have been just as cute and much quicker to make if I’d simply cut the couch out of denim fabric. Or, better still  home dec fabric that  complements my living room furniture fabric. I’m saving the pattern pieces in case I want to update the look with a slipcover in the future 🤭

UPDATE 10/22: The couch is adorable, but a crocheted cover is not great for lounging kitties catching claws and shedding fur! Can't wait to cut this pattern out using a pair of old jeans, for a durable washable update here soon!

Hope this helps you complete a couch for your cat. It’s so much fun to see my kitty lounging where I want her to be –on her own couch!
Download the free pattern HERE.
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    Paula Heckathorn

    Sharing some yarn fun.

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