Free Roll-up Travel Shawl Crochet Pattern

Throw it in the back of the car so it's always there for lumbar or neck support, chilly restaurants or impromptu picnics. For travel comfort and convenience; it's shawl, pillow and blanket all rolled into one!

This fun stash buster is one crochet shawl everyone can use. Choose easy option one with any repeating pattern or intermediate/advance option 2 for mixed stripes as you go.

BEGINNER CROCHET and BEST OPTION ​for effortless straight edges choose this option and follow steps 1-8.

Hobby Lobby "I Love This Yarn": Amethyst, Hot Rose, Orange.

• Use any repeating pattern of your choice
• Work 3, 5 or 7 colors with specified hook for yarn/pattern.
• Shown: "Tropighana Crochet Blanket Pattern" free here. This pattern specified 5 colors, I used 3 (less is more).
• Or, try: "Diamond Stitch Blanket Crochet Pattern" free here.
• Follow steps 1-8, disregarding the "TECHNIQUE" links below which are necessary to achieve straight edges if you choose option #2. With this option, the pattern repeat ensures even edges!

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MIXED STRIPES: Intermediate/Advanced. Choose this option if you're an experienced crocheter who doesn't mind frequent counting, a bit of frogging, blocking and some trial and error necessary to fine tune for straight edges.

With a bit of skill, you can work your own combination of colorful waves with sc, hdc, dc, tr –back loop, front loop… add a few granny rows, seed stitches, bobbles and more for variety in your work flow and beautiful textural results.

NOTES
Essential "TECHNIQUE" for working nice straight edges using a variety of (same weight/similar fiber) stash yarns:

• You will need 3.5mm - 6mm hooks for following techniques used to achieve even stitches/edges.
• All shawls shown use #4 worsted with recommended hook.
• Up-size specified hook 1mm for the starting chain as noted.
• Any time a stitch looks too big/bulky or tight/small combined with previous/subsequent rows, you will frog that row(s) and increase or decrease your hook .5mm and make slight tension adjustments.

Everyone has their own learning preference. I prefer written instruction over videos –choose what works for you. The blue links are one click to your choice of tutorials on that particular "TECHNIQUE" so you’re hooking it in minutes!

Both Options: Please read the entire pattern before starting this project to better understand the process:)
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PATTERN
1. Start With 86* Stitches
If following Option #1, *adjust stitch count as specified in your chosen pattern to accomplish a seamless pattern repeat.

I prefer a starting with a STRETCHY FOUNDATION CHAIN also know as a Foundation Double Crochet (Fdc) which doubles as your first row. Finish last row with dc to match row 1.

Make sure you know how to begin and end rows for STRAIGHT EDGES. Here are several video and printed tutorials to cement this easy technique before you start.

CROCHET TENSION affects how straight your edges are. Before starting each session, relax a minute and think about tension. Consistent, relaxed yarn tension allows the fibers to ease into place; forming straighter edges.

I once made a blanket at a "stressful time". After several sessions, I had several rows of very tight stitches (worked under duress?) alternating with a few relaxed rows (less stress that day). Even though I practice straight-edge crochet technique, varying tensions on different days alone made those edges wave.

This quick read sums it up: 9 TIPS FOR CROCHET TENSION SOLUTIONS from thecrochetcrowd.com

2. Count Stitches Often
Especially after doing more complex rows like grannies, bobbles, shells. One or two stitches can be decreased/increased easily towards the end of the current row. If your stitch count is plus or minus more than two stitches, frog back to 86 stitches or starting fdc.

3. Weave Ends

Weave ends frequently to avoid too much weaving at the end of the project. I usually weave 10-12 rows before/after each crochet session after laying the work flat to be sure the edges are as straight as possible. This adds variety to your workflow and makes finishing a breeze.

• Try my fast, fun stab ’n jab technique to lock the yarn fibers while reducing tail pop-outs. Use the sharpest yarn darner needle you can find. My favorite is a size 18 with a pointed (not the usual rounded) tip.
• Don't weave. Instead, split the fibers by quickly pushing the needle through the thickest portion of stitching about 2-3" in long. Repeat with a second pass back to the edge. Tug these stitches a bit so the fibers relax, then clip the tail close to the edge.
• I find this quicker because you don't have to weave through each stitch. Splitting the fibers locks in the fibers so your ends don't pop as much. Have a better way? Do that.

4. Last Row

• Stop at 55" for an average person, add or reduce length as necessary.
• Fasten off, weave ends.

5. Block it!

• Block before crocheting the border. Set your washing machine to low water, cool, gentle/delicate cycle. Add some Eucalan no rinse delicate wash (or sub a couple squirts of dollar store hair conditioner) and agitate a minute to mix.
• Submerge shawl and soak overnight; then skip the rinse cycle and spin until most of the water is out.
• If soaking in a bucket, press out the water, (don’t wring!). Roll it in an oversized towel and step on it with bare feet a few times. This is a great technique to press out excess water.
• Lay the damp shawl over a towel on a flat surface, then gently tug and coax the shawl into a straight rectangle; pushing the stitches from the center to each edge.
• Let it dry, then inspect the sides, placing a marker wherever the shawl bumps out slightly. Small bumps will be tamed straight in next step.
  

Block, then mark "bumps" for taming in step 6.

6. Border Foundation & Finish Rows

• Drop hook down 1 full size.
  Finish Row 1: Fasten yarn for border in the middle of your last row. Ch 2, hdc in next st, continuing hdc in each st with relaxed tension, to (corner) st. In each corner, work 2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc to first st using technique outlined below. Fasten off, weave in end.
  
• Hdc up each side using consistent stitches to match the uniform stitching on your two beginning/end rows. Take your time, this is your foundation for straight edges:
  

Rule of thumb: Work 1 st in each sc/hdc row, 2 sts in dc rows, 3 sts in tr rows, etc., HOWEVER –when a group of stitches looks uneven, it is! When this happens, frog and rework them, so they’re evenly spaced. Lay your work flat every few inches as you go to check for ripples/bumps. This makes frogging and reworking easy and gratifying if necessary because you’re just frogging/reworking a few stitches. I find this process a fun challenge:

• When you approach a (previously marked) "bump," increase your tension slightly as you do a tiny bit wider st placement reverting to relaxed tension when past the bump area.
  

• Count your stitches on all for sides marking each edge with the corresponding stitch count.
  
• Work a second foundation row of relaxed hdc around all 4 sides; increasing/decreasing stitches if required so stitch counts on opposing sides and ends are uniform in number.
  
• If your decreased/increased stitches are greater/lesser than 10 sts, do a third row of sc around to make the adjustments more gradual keeping in mind you may need to pin block one more time when done.
  
• Fasten off, weave in ends

7. Finish End Rows: Buttonhole Placement (2) "a" and "b" (beginning and end rows) are each worked with a different variation.
Both "a" and "b" ends of the shawl are worked with different variations to make the button and loop closure.

• First, mark the button/buttonhole placement.
• Fold shawl in half lengthwise, lining up all edges. Firmly roll the shawl, then place the extra large button in the center of the rolled edge to determine where the (two) button slits will be worked.
• Place a marker or pin on either side of the button twice –on both edges, top and bottom  making sure the markers line up as shown. This marks where your buttonhole begins/ends when you work end row b only.

End Row a) = 4 Rows hdc:

• a 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
• a 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
• a 3/4). Repeat row 2 twice more; fasten off, weave end, move to b rows

End row b). = 4 Rows hdc
with variation on rows 3 and 4:

• b 1). Fasten yarn in one end corner, ch 2; hdc in each st. to end, turn.
• b 2). Ch 2, hdc in next st to end, turn.
• b 3). Ch 2, hdc to first marked spot, *skip st. to next marker, making 1 ch for each st skipped, resuming hdc in next marked st*, then continue to second marked buttonhole, repeating * to* end of row, turn.
• b 4). Ch 2, hdc to buttonhole chains, working hdc’s over the chains in each spot. Hdc 20 to end of row, fasten off, weave end.
• Firmly roll the shawl again and make sure your buttonholes line up before moving to step 8.
  

Finish Both End Rows With Decorative Edges (2) Both the same, a and b

• Finish with your favorite border pattern, there’s a ton of free patterns online, my favorite "roundup" is is at beautifulcrochetstuff.com I chose: "Light Pink Crochet Border". Finish decorative edges on each end a/b, weaving in ends when done.
  

9. Sew/Reinforced Buttons

• Almost done! Fold shawl in half, match edges, then roll the shawl from a to b; rolling firmly without tugging. The buttonholes should line up in the center of the roll when folded. After the firm roll, allow end b to relax a bit so the closure doesn't pull when buttoned, marking the center of the buttonhole on the third layer below for plaement. Shake the shawl open.
• Sew an oversized button on that marker through the shawl catching a small button on the other side to stabilize. If the buttonhole is too loose your, blind sew the sides with same yarn or slip stitch crochet around the inside of the buttonhole.

Viola! Now try a stash-busting afghan using the same technique.
Happy Yarning!

Mixed stripe shawls top, bottom left and right.